Backpacker on becoming a Taliban guest in Pakistan

It’s certainly a less-trodden path, but that’s exactly why one intrepid backpacker wanted to do it. 

Rico Chee, a 25-year-old Malaysian writer and translator, crossed the border from Pakistan to Iran last year as part of his ongoing 6,200-mile journey from China to Istanbul. 

He talks to MailOnline Travel about finding himself as a ‘guest’ of the Taliban during his time in Pakistan – how he met a member who said he’d simply ‘got used to’ killing, and hosts who were incredibly courteous.

Rico Chee, a 25-year-old Malaysian traveller and writer (centre), crossed the border from Pakistan to Iran with armed escorts (pictured) who are assigned to all foreigners

Reaching Iran via the Pakistan border as a foreigner means you’re entitled to a free armed escort, Rico explains – but only for certain parts of the journey.

‘I soon realised that the Pakistani army would to a great degree protect my life,’ he says.

‘Friends I had in certain regions were still very pessimistic about my trip. One even tried to hide my passport because he really thought I was going to get myself killed.’

But Rico went anyway.

Many of his photos were deleted by Taliban forces. This shows a rickshaw in Pakistan, also known as a 'ching ching'

Many of his photos were deleted by Taliban forces. This shows a rickshaw in Pakistan, also known as a ‘ching ching’

Here Rico is pictured at another point of his ongoing journey - at the Wagah border crossing ceremony from Pakistan to India

Here Rico is pictured at another point of his ongoing journey – at the Wagah border crossing ceremony from Pakistan to India

Through another Pakistani friend, Rico became a guest of several members of the Taliban while traversing the country.

He explains that in Pakistan he had an armed escort in the Gilgit-Baltistan area and also from Quetta to Taftan, the Pakistani border with Iran.

He was introduced to the Taliban before he reached Quetta.

He says: ‘It wouldn’t have been possible after Quetta where my every move was monitored by the armed escort and going out alone without them was also not possible.’

He continues: ‘Most of the Taliban have never seen foreigners, let alone travellers before, so they were very excited to hear about my side of the story. 

‘It was a very humbling experience to say the least.’

Rico added: ‘There’s a saying here – “If you’re a guest, then you’re a friend sent by God” – which couldn’t be any truer from what I’ve experienced, even with supposedly brutal militants.

‘I spent most of the time talking to them, trying to understand them.’ 

Rico, pictured dressed like a local in Balochistan, a conservative part of Pakistan

A traditional Iranian breakfast provided by one of his hosts in Iran

Rico pictured (left) dressed like a local in Balochistan, a conservative part of Pakistan, and (right) a traditional Iranian breakfast provided by one of his hosts in Iran

He goes on: ‘There’s one conversation I had which I’ll never forget. One of the Talibs, who was introduced to me as “Alan” claimed he was fighting beside the Taliban chief Mullah Mansour, who was killed by the US drone strike back in May 2016. 

‘He looked more like a Caucasian than a South-Asian or Middle-Eastern to me.’

Rico explains that according to Alan, the economic situation in his village was dismal at the time, so when he was offered ‘a lot of money to fight for religious causes’, he didn’t think twice.

One man he met claimed to have fought beside Taliban leader Mullah Akhtar Mansour (pictured) before he was killed in 2016

One man he met claimed to have fought beside Taliban leader Mullah Akhtar Mansour (pictured) before he was killed in 2016

‘It was a deal he couldn’t refuse,’ Rico recounts.

‘There were literally no jobs in his village. What’s worse, when a major flood hit his province in 2010, it wasn’t the government who first extended their hands to rebuild the village, but the Talibans.’

Even given this, many may still wonder how someone could sign up to a murderous cause.

Rico explains further that for some villagers, the Taliban were actually the ‘lesser of evils’.

He says: ‘President Obama’s authorised drone strikes on these tribal areas have amplified the hatred of many of those villagers, not only towards the American forces, but towards the Pakistani government who were “allies” with Washington, too. 

‘The American government thinks by conducting drone strikes, they’ve been “reducing radicalisation and terrorism” when they’ve just created more potential terrorists in these regions by making children orphans and martyrs.

‘Not just him, but a lot of villagers could be and have been influenced into that too, more so if they’ve got their loved ones killed by the U.S army operations. I think the U.S. drone strikes have motivated a lot of them to joining and for the first time in their life, becoming attracted to the idea of extreme religious fundamentalism to get hope, and the Taliban was the perfect salesman to pitch them, to capitalise on their extreme anger and frustration at the time. 

‘It’s due to a series of such events, that it’s become a deal that many at the time couldn’t refuse.’ 

Alan’s description of life under the regime is disturbing.

‘He wasn’t used to killing at first, but he’s got used to it now and just didn’t think twice about it anymore, unlike when he first started,’ Rico explains.

‘There was a time he went to a village with Mullah’s unit, where they killed everyone that resisted joining them or giving up their money. At this point, he just couldn’t quit anymore.’

The border crossing ceremony in Wagah between India and Pakistan, during which both sides lower their flags simultaneously in a signal of respect 

The border crossing ceremony in Wagah between India and Pakistan, during which both sides lower their flags simultaneously in a signal of respect 

When Rico actually got to the border crossing on the other side, most of his photos were deleted by immigration officials, but he passed fairly easily other than that.

He says: ‘They just told me that taking photos wasn’t appropriate and that I shouldn’t do it again. I understand that and complied to their requests.’

Rico says his overwhelming take-home was that his venture was an overwhelming positive experience.  

Highlights, he says, included wandering the breathtaking ‘Little Switzerland’ landscape in northern Pakistan, and catching a glimpse of the Milky Way while camping outside Tehran. 

Highlights of Rico's voyage included wandering the breathtaking ‘Little Switzerland’ landscape in northern Pakistan (pictured)

Highlights of Rico’s voyage included wandering the breathtaking ‘Little Switzerland’ landscape in northern Pakistan (pictured)

Rico pictured in Pakistan's Karimabad, where he enjoyed stunning views from all around 

Rico pictured in Pakistan’s Karimabad, where he enjoyed stunning views all around 

Finally, experiencing Wagah, a crossing post between Pakistan and India. 

‘Travellers cross over from one country to the other just like at any other border check,’ he says.

‘The significance of this border is the flag lowering ceremony held every evening. Pakistan and India have a hostile relationship because of the unresolved Kashmir dispute. 

‘Despite this, the spectacular ceremony is carried out by both – lowering their flags in precise synchronization each night.’

It should be noted that the UK government currently advises against all travel to certain regions of Pakistan – including the border between Iran and Pakistan – and all but essential travel to others regions. See Gov.uk for more information. 

Read more at DailyMail.co.uk