Are they fake?
Lab-grown diamonds are not fakes, they have the same ingredients as a mined one, as a lab-grown diamond derives from a tetrahedral crystal of carbon.
Despite being grown in a lab, these gemstones are chemically and physically identical to a mined diamond. In fact, as of last year, the system that prices diamonds based on their 4Cs: Cut, Clarity, Colour and Carat and ratings are the same whether they are lab-grown or mined.
Scott Thompson, Co-Founder of Carat* London, a jewellery brand that works with high quality man-made gemstones, says: ‘Our lab grown (or ‘Gentle Diamonds’) are chemically, physically and visually identical to a mined diamond. We have been working towards this for more than a decade and we believe this will ultimately transform the industry.
In the next few years, we plan on having fully carbon-neutral diamonds across the entire spectrum with verified supply chains. We are offering a new generation of diamond to a new generation of consumer; it’s both a more sustainable and a more affordable choice.’
How do they grow diamonds in a lab?
Using advanced technology, makers are able to mimic the exact environment underneath the earth’s crust where diamonds form naturally. Created two ways – either with extreme pressure and heat or using a super-heated plasma – lab-grown diamonds are made inside a machine rather than deep inside the Earth.
The technology has seen crucial advances in recent years, and lab-created diamonds can be grown much faster than previously (it takes around 12 weeks) and are also far less expensive than their mined counterparts, typically between 50 per cent – 70 per cent.
Can you spot the difference between a lab-grown diamond and a mined diamond?
Jewellers cut and polish lab-grown diamonds the same way they do with a diamond mined from the earth. The finished result means that two stones look practically identical.
Are they more sustainable?
Yes they are. Study after study shows that the creation process of lab grown diamonds are indeed more sustainable – although to be fair they do still leave a carbon footprint, as does with anything that is derived from expending energy. And although the mined diamond industry is now overwhelmingly committed to ethically-sourced gemstones, there is still a complex supply chain that is spread across the globe. Lab-created jewels offer full transparency, are traceable, and take any questions of origin out of the equation.
Are these the same as Cubic Zirconia?
Not even a little. A gentle diamond is made from pure crystallised carbon, with the exact same physical, atomic and elemental properties as a mined diamond. Cubic Zirconia on the other hand, is a form of zirconium dioxide, created to mimic the look of a diamond, but only visually. It does not have the same physical attributes.
Will they ever replace the ‘real thing’?
Opinion here is mixed. Whilst younger buyers seem to be open to it –there are definitely doubters. Ben Johnson, MD at Miltons Diamonds says, ‘Many couples shopping for an engagement ring will still gravitate towards mined diamonds, as there is a romanticised historical element that comes with the stone having been formed millions of years ago beneath the earth’s surface.’
Scott Thompson at Carat London says ultimately this is about having a choice, ‘We believe lab diamonds are the future of the jewellery industry; importantly unleashing an enormous creativity in the sector due to their more affordable price points.
We don’t think they will replace mined diamond per se, but the customer now has a choice, between what is environmentally and socially sustainable or what is not. Our lab grown are just that – and they offer both better values along with better value.’
The good news is, that whatever your preference – as lab grown diamonds near mainstream acceptance, both the lab-grown and mining industries are pushing one another to become more transparent and ethical.
Arabel Lebrusan, founder of ethical jewellery brand Lebrusan Studio says, ‘Going man-made doesn’t need to be the only answer. In an ideal world, the solution is to fix the market as a whole; make provenance compulsory, supply chain tracking standard practise and fair wages default.
If lab-grown alternatives to natural diamonds become totally prioritised, this important revolution will become overlooked. We see a world where both natural and lab-grown diamonds coexist in equilibrium, with full disclosure of origin available for both and each customer’s unique dreams fulfilled.’