Clem’s Chicken Shop Newtown: The incredible story behind the family business

It’s the iconic chicken shop that has stood the test of time and is loved by thousands across Sydney.

But few people know the incredible story behind Clem’s, which has been named as the area’s best takeaway’s for the second year in a row.

Founded by Greek immigrants Despina and Kleanthis ‘Clem’ Tsakalides in 1982, Clem’s Chicken is more popular than ever today, known around the city for the famous roast chicken and home-style meals.

But as the suburb of Newtown has transformed into a hipster haven with fancy cocktail bars, clothing shops and organic food stores – nothing much has changed about Clem’s, with many of the recipes that were popular in the 80s still being served today. 

The couple’s son Spiro Tsakalides told Daily Mail Australia that Newtown was ‘seriously rough’ and a ‘no go zone’ for many in Sydney, but that didn’t stop his parents from spotting an opportunity for a chicken shop in the area.

‘Back then my brother was rolled for his shoes while walking home from school,’ he explained.

It’s a far cry from today.

‘Between 1990 and 2010, the redevelopment of pubs and new apartments led to the biggest changes,’ Mr Tsakalides said.

‘It’s one of the more expensive streets for rent in the inner west and the evolution of its growth has been great to watch. Being on the corner of King Street and Brown Street means we have front-row seats.

‘We see what is happening outside, we see the buzz of the place and more importantly, people can see us. They can see what we’re about.’

The chicken shop first opened its doors on January 5, 1982 and was run by Greek immigrants Despina and Kleanthis (Clem) Tsakalides. The couple’s children Spiro, Panagioti and Barbra now run the shop (left to right, Despina, Barbra, Panagioti and Spiro)

The shop, celebrated its 41st anniversary on January 5 and won Sydney’s Inner West Small Business Awards ‘Best Fastfood/Takeaway’ for 2023 for a second consecutive year.

Mr Tsakalides said his mum is remains the backbone of the shop despite it now being run by himself, his brother Panagioti and sister Barber. 

Despina, 84, lives upstairs and still serves dishes made from her original Greek recipes to customers in the shop below. Tragically her husband Clem passed away from brain cancer in 2004.

When asked why she believes the family-run business has lasted for more than four decades, the 84-year-old joked in Greek: ‘because of our stupidity’.

Ms Tsakalides added she and her husband stayed through all the ‘bad times’ when others would have given up.

‘There was definitely a lot more good than there was bad. That’s why we’re still here,’ Ms Tsakalides said.

One Clem’s Chicken customer told Daily Mail Australia the shop was an ‘institution’ in Newtown.

‘It’s definitely an institution. It has always had great staff and great food,’ the customer said.

‘I get to eat my chicken and watch the world go by.

‘I don’t understand why other chicken shop franchises decided to open up across the road because there is absolutely no competition. Clem’s is the best.’

Spiro said his parents came from humble beginnings and focused on providing their family with a good life in Australia.

His father migrated from Greece in 1959 and was given the anglicised name ‘Clem’. His mother arrived in 1961, and the pair married.

In 1980, the couple got an opportunity to lease out a building in Newtown.

‘We put our hand up and said we’ll enter and we’ll do a clothing stop. But it didn’t turn out to be a clothing shopper,’ Mr Tsakalides said.

‘My dad was advised not to go into clothes because it was too fickle of a business and was told to get into food. And so he got into food all right.’

The shop won Sydney’s Inner West Small Business Awards ‘Best Fastfood/Takeaway’ for 2023 (pictured Panagioti, Despina and Spiro winning the award)

Spiro Tsakalides credits the team (pictured), his parents’ work ethic and his dad’s understanding of community for their success

It’s the second consecutive win for the shop (pictured, Panagioti and Spiro with the shop’s 2022 award) 

Mr Tsakalides explained the secret to the shop’s delicious barbeque chicken comes from a family recipe given to his parents by the wife of his great-grandfather’s brother.

He added, his aunt Evangalia ran successful chicken shops in America and was so honoured that Despina and Clem named their son after her husband she gave them the recipe.

‘She was so honoured by that she said she’d do something for us. She gave us her family’s secret recipe for barbeque chicken. The recipe. That recipe was a fantastic gift.’

Mr Tsakalides credits his parents’ work ethic for the shop’s success.

‘We all worked hard, but my parents were work horses, always the first to rise and the last to rest,’ Mr Tsakalides said.

‘Their work ethic had an effect on my siblings and I. We all pitched in to run the shop. My sister, who was 12 years old at the time, would work after school.’

‘I remember she was so small she had to look through the glass food display to see the customer and would stand on a milk crate to serve them.’

Mr Tsakalides said as a young man, he often made the mistake of restocking the cigarettes right before closing, which always led break-ins.

‘The most ridiculous idea because people would not have any issue breaking a window and stealing the cigarettes,’ Mr Tsakalides said.

‘Nobody wanted the fresh chickens or anything. Just the cigarettes. We eventually stopped selling them.

‘Cigarettes are the biggest curse for your lungs, your wallet and for break-ins!’

The chicken shop has also served its fair share of high-profile patrons including mum Shirl, performer Carlotta, former Anglican Archbishop of Sydney Peter Jensen, former Greek Minister of Finance Yanis Varoufakis and Anthony ‘choc’ Mundine

Despina joked the shop’s success was because of their ‘stupidity’. The 84-year-old said she and her husband took the bad with the good and managed to grow the business (pictured, Despina and Kleanthis Tsakalides inside the shop in the 1980s)

Spiro said his father believed in a real sense of community and would always help someone in need because he knew what it was like to be poor (pictured, Despina and Clem with former staff)

Mr Tsakalides also said his father would always help someone in need. 

‘He was always for the community and would use the shop as a base to help as much as he could,’ Mr Tsakalides said. 

‘He knew what hunger was. He knew the depression. He was familiar with all of that and the struggle of not having enough to overcome those things. 

‘People would come in unable to afford food, or he would see a single mum with her kids and would tell them ‘not to worry’. 

‘He used to do these things for charitable stuff. He used to do it in a way where nobody would notice.’ 

Aboriginal activist Shirley Coleen, also known as mum shirl, would visit the shop and would work with Clem in organising chickens for the young Indigenous men who were in jail. 

The chicken shop has also served its fair share of high-profile patrons including performer Carlotta, one of the inspirations for Priscilla: Queen of the Desert and the Anglican Archbishop of Sydney from 2001 to 2013 Peter Jensen. 

Clem’s chicken are also supporters, sponsors and caterers to the Sydney University Flames and the Sydney Kings (pictured, Despina and Panagioti with Sydney Flames players)

Mr Tsakalides said being on the corner of King Street and Brown Street means he has watched the evolution of Newtown from being ‘seriously rough’ to becoming one of the more ‘expensive streets for rent in the inner west’

Mr Tsakalides said the shop has been a part of historic moments and remembers former Sydney Lord Mayor Frank Sartor eating at the shop just two days after the city won the right to host the 2000 Olympic Games.

Mr Tsakalides also recalls a very ‘human’ moment his brother shared with  former professional boxer and rugby league footballer Anthony ‘Choc’ Mundine. 

‘I remember watching them as they chatted away while looking out the window,’ Mr Tsakalides said. 

‘They were just pondering and I think it helped me understand that we’re all just human with our own foibles and our own strengths and weaknesses.’ 

‘Essentially, we’re just a shop from humble beginnings serving everyday people and we will continue to do so as best as we can.’