Factories producing materials for cheap ‘fast fashions’ loved by British shoppers have been implicated in a health scandal.
Toxic pollutants released as a result of the production of viscose are alleged to have poisoned communities in India and Indonesia.
The material is most often used to create summer dresses, skirts, soft blouses, and synthetic velvet.
Viscose is made from wood pulp and is often touted as a ‘green’ sustainable alternative fabric to cotton and polyester.
However, toxic chemicals are used in the production process and these can cause serious environmental pollution and illness if not carefully controlled.
Toxic pollutants released as a result of the production of viscose are alleged to have poisoned communities in India and Indonesia (stock photo)
An investigation commissioned by the Changing Markets Foundation found air and water pollution from two major viscose factories is thought to be causing illness and even premature deaths.
The report titled ‘Dirty Fashion revisited: spotlight on a polluting viscose giant’, looked at plants run by the Indian company Aditya Birla Group – one in Madhya Pradesh, India, and another in West Java, Indonesia.
Birla supplies viscose which ends up in clothes sold by household names such as H&M, ASOS, Asda, Next and Tesco.
An independent laboratory tested an air sample taken outside the plant in India and found the level of carbon disulphide – a toxic chemical used in viscose production – was 125 times the World Health Organisation (WHO) guideline value.
People in communities surrounding the factory are suffering from serious health conditions, including cancer, tuberculosis, reproductive problems, birth defects and stomach disorders. Campaigners fear there may be a link to the factory.
In October 2017, a major health incident resulted in the death of two villagers and left 60 others seriously ill. Locals linked the incident to pollution from the Birla site, although the company has denied this.
At the group’s Indo-Bharat Rayon (IBR) plant in Indonesia, locals report regularly witnessing evidence of illegal discharges into the river.
Independent laboratory tests of water samples showed that the river water around IBR’s discharge pipe is extremely polluted and does not even comply with ‘worst-in-class’ Indonesian water quality standards.
The report titled ‘Dirty Fashion revisited: spotlight on a polluting viscose giant’, looked at plants run by the Indian company Aditya Birla Group (Pictured: Chairman of the group in 2010)
This means it should not even be used for irrigation, let alone drinking or bathing. However, children were seen bathing in the contaminated water close to the discharge pipe, and farmers were found to be using the river water for irrigation and fish farming.
Campaign Manager at Changing Markets, Natasha Hurley, said: ‘Our investigation suggests that Aditya Birla Group is failing to live up to its sustainability claims.
‘Brands buying from the company should look beyond the green spin to understand what is really happening on the ground, where local residents’ and workers’ lives are blighted by pollution on a daily basis.’
After details of the investigation were put to Birla and retailers, several have recently agreed to sign up to a so-called ‘roadmap’ drawn up by Changing Markets to ensure the safe and responsible production of viscose. Signatories include ASOS, H&M and Inditex, which owns Zara and many other brands.
Retailers insisted they are working together to ensure viscose production is carried out without any harmful pollutants escaping the factories run by suppliers.
ASOS said: ‘We are aware that the production of viscose is chemically intensive and requires proper management of chemicals and wastewater. We are committed to addressing the issue with our sustainable sourcing and environmental policies and by engaging with our suppliers to transition to closed-loop production.’
H&M said: ‘The roadmap reflects our ambitions towards responsible viscose and modal fibre manufacturing very well. Collaboration is key for moving the viscose industry towards a more sustainable future and we have already taken first steps in collaboration with our supply chains and other brands.’