I bless the wine down in Africa…

I bless the wine down in Africa…

Is there anything South Africa can’t do? The patchwork of soils and conditions give a huge diversity to what South Africa can achieve. Add valleys and mountains, with coastal influences of the Indian and Atlantic oceans, and the potential for wine-growing is jaw-dropping. But uniting the lot is dedication, especially in the face of conditions in years like 2018, which saw production shrink by 15 per cent, so it’s time to raise a glass to all that hard work.

The first grapes were pressed on February 2, 1659, and today Chenin Blanc is the most planted white grape, while Cabernet Sauvignon leads the reds. But the real thrill for me in South African wine-making is the attention to detail on smaller parcels of land with unexpected grape varieties.

Grenache is growing, Greek Assyrtiko is thriving in the hands of Eben Sadie, and there’s been success with Hungarian Hárslevelú from Lemberg Wine Estate and Portuguese Touriga Nacional from leading talents such as Adi Badenhorst and Duncan Savage. Bring in the world of blending on top of all this and it’s easy to forget established signature grape varieties such as Pinotage.

Pinotage, a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault, is a Moses and the Red Sea type of wine. It divides. I remember when I visited Johan Krige at Kanonkop telling me his philosophy to ‘try to express Pinot but don’t make a Pinot, favour the better parent’. Generally I prefer the lighter styles of Pinotage made by David and Nadia Sadie for example, rather than some of the boozier, burlier and frankly smellier examples that belong in a forgettable supporting role in Days Of Thunder, all burnt rubber and smoke.

But what I love most is that this is a land of wine-makers and wine-growers who you can follow and admire year after year. Chris and Andrea Mullineux are making some of my favourite South African wines, which you can find at bbr.com, but I urge you to dive in and find your own favourites to follow.

The choice and opportunity for great South African wine is immense.

 

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