Meet Afghanistan’s first female skiers

‘In 2013,’ said ski instructor Henriette Bjorge, ‘women in Afghanistan had no idea what skiing was.’

MailOnline Travel is listening to the Norwegian speak at Expedition Finse, a sort of festival for adventurers in Norway. She is explaining how she went about introducing Afghan women from an impoverished rural community in a former Taliban stronghold to snow ploughing and parallel turns.

At first she had to do all of this while her students were dressed in completely inappropriate gear because they didn’t have access to technical kit. For their first lesson, a group of Afghan women turned up armed with handbags, their best dress coats, chic sunglasses and silk hijabs looking like they were more ready for a Paris catwalk than for high-speed thrills.

While some might be surprised to see the girls in such western-style garb, Bjorge, 38, explains that they’re from the town of Bamyan which is populated by Hazaras – one of the more liberal groups in Afghanistan – and burkas aren’t enforced. 

They were introduced to the sport by Norwegian Henriette Borge

Armed with handbags, their best dress coats, chic sunglasses and silk hijabs, a group of Afghan women turned up for their first ski lesson not knowing what was in store. They were introduced to the sport by Norwegian Henriette Bjorge

She adds: ‘If they go to the bazaar they might wear a burka, but it is mainly the older generation who dress like this.’   

On the religious front, Hazaras are primarily Shia Muslims while most Afghans follow the Sunni branch of Islam. And when it comes to mixing with men, usually things are kept separate but again, it’s not as strictly policed as other ethnic groups. Topping things off, Bamyan is also famed for having the first and only female governor in Afghanistan with Habiba Sorabi appointed in 2005 until 2013.

The province of Bamyan is famed for its gaping hillside niches that once sheltered ancient Buddha statues that were blown up by the Taliban, who aren’t in the area anymore.

Another big draw for visitors is buzkashi, the country’s national sport.

Thousands flock to the area to watch athletes on horseback as they attempt to throw the corpse of a decapitated goat – instead of a ball – into a scoring circle.

Commenting on the scenery visitors can expect in Bamyan, Bjorge said: ‘It’s an amazing place to visit. There’s unlimited things to see and explore, from historical sites along the Silk Road to places of natural beauty.’ 

Hitting the slopes for the first time 

Bjorge’s female students – more seasoned at cooking, cleaning and staying at home – had apprehensively signed up to hit the slopes surrounding Bamyan – which has no ski lifts – after getting permission from their families and religious leaders, and they had no idea what was in store.

‘I went there with a mission to teach skiing and show people how much joy it can bring,’ Bjorge says of her endeavour to introduce her favourite sport to Afghan women.

The Norwegian had been working for the Afghanistan embassy in Oslo when she first visited the war-torn country back in 2009.

She said the pristine, untouched mountains left a big impression on her but, because of the security situation, she put any wacky ideas about skiing in the region to bed.

However, in 2013 Bjorge decided to quit her job and make her dreams come true.

After doing a season in the snow in Chamonix she headed to the middle east to help out at the Bamyan Ski Club.

The club, located in central Afghanistan, was founded by Swiss journalist Christoph Zuercher in 2011 and Bjorge signed up with the aim of getting more women involved.

Bjorge, pictured left with her female ski students, headed out to Bamyan in central Afghanistan in 2013 to teach skiing

Bjorge, pictured left with her female ski students, headed out to Bamyan in central Afghanistan in 2013 to teach skiing

Borge had to seek permission from religious leaders before the girls were allowed to hit the slopes

The town elders were apparently most concerned about what the women would be wearing

Bjorge had to seek permission from religious leaders before the girls were allowed to hit the slopes. She said the town elders were most concerned about what the women would be wearing

In a bid to spark interest among the women, Bjorge started off by running 'picnic days' on the ski slopes as eating as a group was something familiar to them. Above, a group of female skiers stop for lunch, tucking into a hearty spread of stew, stacks of naan bread and bowls of boiled eggs

In a bid to spark interest among the women, Bjorge started off by running ‘picnic days’ on the ski slopes as eating as a group was something familiar to them. Above, a group of female skiers stop for lunch, tucking into a hearty spread of stew, stacks of naan bread and bowls of boiled eggs

The province of Bamyan is famed for its gaping hillside niches that once sheltered ancient Buddha statues that were blown up by the Taliban, who aren't in the area anymore

The province of Bamyan is famed for its gaping hillside niches that once sheltered ancient Buddha statues that were blown up by the Taliban, who aren’t in the area anymore

She said her family thought she was ‘crazy’, after she sold her apartment and other possessions but they soon realised the value in what she was doing.

The town of Bamyan, which has a population of about 100,000 people, is located around a five-hour drive from Kabul, but Bjorge says the roads aren’t safe so it’s better to travel by air.

The region is known for its vast mountain ranges, which cover around 90 per cent of the province, and its long harsh winters, which produce perfect skiing conditions.

Many of the slopes are easily accessible from the town centre and the gently-sloping terrain is great for beginners. 

Along with learning how to ski, the women have also had tutorials on how to look after their gear. Bjorge said the girls likened waxing skis to ironing clothes

Along with learning how to ski, the women have also had tutorials on how to look after their gear. Bjorge said the girls likened waxing skis to ironing clothes

Over time the Afghan women have ditched their bags, coats and scarves for more apt skiing gear. Much of this has been provided to them free of charge through various sponsorship and fundraising efforts

Over time the Afghan women have ditched their bags, coats and scarves for more apt skiing gear. Much of this has been provided to them free of charge through various sponsorship and fundraising efforts

The town of Bamyan, which has a population of about 100,000 people, is located around a five-hour drive from Kabul, but Bjorge says the roads aren't too safe so it's better to take a helicopter. The region is known for its vast mountain ranges, which cover around 90 per cent of the province, and its long harsh winters produce great skiing conditions

The town of Bamyan, which has a population of about 100,000 people, is located around a five-hour drive from Kabul, but Bjorge says the roads aren’t too safe so it’s better to take a helicopter. The region is known for its vast mountain ranges, which cover around 90 per cent of the province, and its long harsh winters produce great skiing conditions

Bjorge, fourth from the left, stands smiling with a group of her students on one of the mountain ridges

Bjorge, fourth from the left, stands smiling with a group of her students on one of the mountain ridges

Before Bjorge went to Bamyan she organised a crowdfunding campaign. 

The money she raised enabled her to take ski poles, goggles, a camera and other pieces of winter sports equipment locals didn’t have access to.

Bjorge started out by teaching around 25 to 30 boys how to ski from Christoph Zuercher’s new academy.

She said the majority wore skis that had been donated by tourists or humanitarian aid workers in the country. They were often joined by children with skis that they had made themselves out of wood.

Instead of boots, they nailed ordinary shoes to wooden planks.

Skiing in Afghanistan has apparently been going on for centuries but traditionally the men use the means of transport for moving through the snow to hunt for animals or collect livestock, not for fun.

After adjusting to life in the area and feeling comfortable with the terrain, Bjorge set her sights on teaching Afghan women how to ski.

Offering insight into life as a woman in the Bamyan area, Bjorge said: ‘Afghanistan is among the worst countries to grow up in as a woman and the culture is extremely conservative. They normally don’t do any kind of physical activity or sport and lots of things are forbidden.’

The women soon took to skiing and Bjorge said they found a new sense of freedom through doing the sport

The women soon took to skiing and Bjorge said they found a new sense of freedom through doing the sport

Borge said running ski events wouldn't have been possible with cooperation from the local police

The local people apparently never complained about the lack of a ski lift or bad equipment

Bjorge said running ski events wouldn’t have been possible with cooperation from the local police (left) and the enthusiasm of the local people who never complained about the lack of a ski lift or bad equipment (right)

One of the female skiers sits on the slopes in her ski boots with a baby in her arms

A young woman applies climbing skins to her skis so she can ascend a backcountry slope more easily

One of the female skiers sits on the slopes in her ski boots with a baby in her arms (left), while another applies climbing skins to her skis so she can ascend a backcountry slope more easily (right)

A group of women trudge up a slope using a side-stepping technique. One of the skiers is seen wearing jeans, with the denim material prone to getting soggy in the snow

A group of women trudge up a slope using a side-stepping technique. One of the skiers is seen wearing jeans, with the denim material prone to getting soggy in the snow

Amazingly over the past seven years, there has only been one broken leg and the club takes things slowly with its students in a bid to avoid accidents

Amazingly over the past seven years, there has only been one broken leg and the club takes things slowly with its students in a bid to avoid accidents

Firstly, to be able to tutor the Afghan women, Bjorge had to seek permission from the ski club and a non-governmental organization called Aga Khan Foundation, which was involved in the ski project at the very beginning. Then a local tour operator by the name of Gull Hussein helped seek advice from religious leaders.

She said the town elders were ‘quite positive’ about letting the women ski but they worried about what they would be wearing.

These men were reassured that the women could remain covered up and eventually Bjorge was given the green light.

Opening up about the chain of events, Bjorge mused: ‘I thought, “How do you get women into skiing?” They didn’t even know what it was!’

In a bid to spark interest among the women, Bjorge and the Bamyan Ski Club team started off by running ‘picnic days’ for families on the ski slopes as meeting as a group to eat was something familiar to them.

After three such days, around ten brave young women signed up for ski lessons from the 60 or so who had been turning up so far.

Reciting the scene, Bjorge said: ‘They all showed up in their nicest clothes, they were so motivated. We tried to make them feel comfortable.’

Taking things to the next level, the women were invited to train towards a female version of the annual contest known as the Afghan Ski Challenge.

This is a backcountry ski race that is organised by the Bamyan Ski Club and takes place every spring.

The course features uphill and downhill sections, covering around 1.8 miles, and the rules stipulate that there are ‘no weapons allowed’ and ‘everyone must start at the same time’.

A group of men watch on as a female skier determinedly looks off into the distance 

A group of men watch on as a female skier determinedly looks off into the distance 

Bjorge said she found teaching the Afghan women how to ski very psychically demanding too as the women kept falling over and she had to help them up

Bjorge said she found teaching the Afghan women how to ski very psychically demanding too as the women kept falling over and she had to help them up

Gradually the women gained confidence and Bjorge said the skiing helped them become more active in the community

Gradually the women gained confidence and Bjorge said the skiing helped them become more active in the community

Taking thinks to the next level, Bjorge invited the women to take place in a contest known as the Afghan Ski Challenge. Since its inception in 2010, the race had not included girls but Bjorge was determined to get them involved

Taking thinks to the next level, Bjorge invited the women to take place in a contest known as the Afghan Ski Challenge. Since its inception in 2010, the race had not included girls but Bjorge was determined to get them involved

Since its inception in 2011, the race had not included girls but Bjorge was determined to get them involved.

She believed that by signing up to the race they would have a goal to work towards and it would encourage them to refine their skills.

Ten Afghan women put their trust in Bjorge said ‘yes’. Turning up for their first lesson with their handbags, best coasts, scarves and hijabs, they took to the slopes for the very first time.

For lunch, they’d packed a hearty spread of stew, stacks of naan bread and bowls of boiled eggs. 

Revealing what happened from there, Bjorge said: ‘I spent at least a week just teaching the girls how to stop. It was difficult.

‘They weren’t used to physical activity so they had to work on building muscle and balance.

‘I found it very physically demanding too as the women kept falling over and I continuously had to help them up.

‘It took a long time for them to learn the basics and it was extremely frustrating. I had to channel my inner-patience!’

After days of hard work, ten young women were up to scratch and they stood ready at the start line at the 2013 first female Afghan Ski Challenge.

Bjorge said the women did well and there were tears at the finish line, not because of injury, but because they were overwhelmed by the sense of achievement.

Fast-forwarding, the women are said to be making good progress.

Due to other work commitments for Bjorge, a Slovenian ski instructor, Ana Tasic, has taken over the torch in teaching skiing to the Bamyan women.

Over time they have ditched their bags, coats and scarves for more apt skiing gear. Much of this has been provided to them free-of-charge through various sponsorship and fundraising efforts.

Bjorge and her colleagues have done much fundraising in a bid to get new gear for the ski students. The men started out by using skis they had fashioned out of lengths of wood

Bjorge and her colleagues have done much fundraising in a bid to get new gear for the ski students. The men started out by using skis they had fashioned out of lengths of wood

After hours and days of hard work, four of the women were up to scratch and they stood ready at the start line at the 2013 Afghan Ski Challenge. They were honoured with their own female-only contest and Bjorge said the women did well

After hours and days of hard work, four of the women were up to scratch and they stood ready at the start line at the 2013 Afghan Ski Challenge. They were honoured with their own female-only contest and Bjorge said the women did well

Many of the young women were overcome with emotion after taking part in their first ski race

Many of the young women were overcome with emotion after taking part in their first ski race

Bjorge said it took her a week just to teach the girls how to stop on skis as they weren't used to physical activity

Bjorge said it took her a week just to teach the girls how to stop on skis as they weren’t used to physical activity

Along with learning how to ski, the women have also had tutorials on avalanche risks, how to look after their gear and how to wax up their skis.

On the male front, two members from the Bamyan ski club – Sayed Alishah Farhang and Sajjad Husaini – recently made headlines with their bid for the 2018 Winter Olympics.

Unfortunately the accomplished skiers didn’t quite make the cut but they will soon be on their way to attend the games in Pyeongchang, South Korea, as special guests.

Husaini, 26, told the AFP of his dreams: ‘We wanted to represent Afghanistan in a different way, to show the other countries that Afghanistan is not only war.’ Now they are looking ahead aiming for the next Winter Olympics, determined that Afghanistan will be represented.

Summing up her work in Afghanistan, Bjorge said: ‘It’s not just about skiing. The Bamyan Ski Club project has created a lot of jobs and the boys and girls are more optimistic about their future.

‘Winter was often seen as a time of year when there was nothing to do because of the cold weather but now they have a new hobby.

‘Boys and girls now go skiing together, something that was completely unthinkable a few years ago.’

Bjorge, who currently works as a communications officer for the United Nations, concluded: ‘The value of sports for women is highly underestimated in developing countries. It creates self-esteem, team spirit and leadership skills, which nurtures an environment where women can speak up for themselves.

‘I have seen the difference it has made. They are more active in the local community and more confident.’

The Bamyan Ski Club is currently working towards building a permanent ski centre in the area and installing the first mountain lift.

It appears Afghanistan is moving towards a brighter future, with a spot of skiing setting the pace.

You can follow Bamyan Ski Club and keep up with its progress on Facebook.

Bjorge (pictured above), who currently works as a communications specialist for the United Nations, concluded: 'The value of sports is highly underestimated in developing countries. It's made a big difference, especially to the women'

Bjorge (pictured above), who currently works as a communications specialist for the United Nations, concluded: ‘The value of sports is highly underestimated in developing countries. It’s made a big difference, especially to the women’

It appears that Afghanistan is moving towards a brighter future, with a spot of skiing setting the pace

It appears that Afghanistan is moving towards a brighter future, with a spot of skiing setting the pace

The Bamyan Ski Club is currently working towards building a permanent ski centre in the area and installing the first mountain lift, which will make the activity easier 

The Bamyan Ski Club is currently working towards building a permanent ski centre in the area and installing the first mountain lift, which will make the activity easier 

An Afghan woman mixes a stylish winter coat and patterned scarf with some ski goggles 

An Afghan woman mixes a stylish winter coat and patterned scarf with some ski goggles 



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