Ah, Valentine’s Day, scourge of chefs the world over. Those once-vibrant rooms, now packed with despondent tables for two. The heavily marked-up ‘romantic’ menus, the soppy specials with a side order of schmaltz. And all those flaccid, overpriced roses. It’s enough to send Venus running for cover. But worry not. The following restaurants are chosen not for their short-term charms, rather their eternal allure, that enigmatic, mysterious spirit that is made, not bought. These are places where sweet nothings mingle among the chocolate tarts, where love lurks between courses, and where Cupid’s bow is ever-taut. Because while Valentine’s Day falls but once per year, true romance is eternal.
‘These are places where sweet nothings mingle among the chocolate tarts, where love lurks between courses, and where Cupid’s bow is ever-taut,’ writes Tom Parker Bowles
Clos Maggiore. With its log fire, twinkling fairy lights, flickering candles and flower-filled conservatory, this may seem like an Instagram-fixated confection. But it’s been a classic, way before social media was a glint in a tech fiend’s eye
Black pearl oysters at J Sheekey. This theatreland classic, with its eternal noise and bustle, may not seem like the most romantic of spots, but it’s amazing what a glass of Champagne, a dozen native oysters and closely packed tables can do for those in pursuit of love
Le Manoir Aux Quat’Saisons. It may not be cheap, but who can put a price on true love?
Peanut butter shortbread at Hawksmoor. The romantically dimmed lights. The hubbub of pure, undiluted pleasure. The soft leather banquettes…
London, central and south
1. J Sheekey
Covent Garden, London
This theatreland classic, with its eternal noise and bustle, may not seem like the most romantic of spots, but it’s amazing what a glass of Champagne, a dozen native oysters and closely packed tables can do for those in pursuit of love. Either sit at the bar, cheek by jowl, or ask for a table at the back. j-sheekey.co.uk
2. Andrew Edmunds
Soho, London
A discreet, charmingly bohemian and joyously laid-back refuge from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. There’s excellent simple and seasonal food, an exceptionally well-priced wine list and the warmest of service. At night, candles sputter gently on every table. Creating an atmosphere so headily romantic that it could make a Trappist monk belt out Burt Bacharach. andrewedmunds.com
3. Galvin at Windows
Mayfair, London
OK, so the great Fred Sirieux, legendary maître d’ and first date guru, may have sadly moved on. But this is one of those rare restaurants where the views (over Hyde Park) most certainly match the food. The food is the haute side of cuisine, but the Galvin name is always a guarantee of Gallic quality. And did I mention that view? galvinatwindows.com
Raspberry and chocolate mille feuille at J Sheekey. Either sit at the bar, cheek by jowl, or ask for a table at the back
4. Clos Maggiore
Covent Garden, London
With its log fire, twinkling fairy lights, flickering candles and flower-filled conservatory, this may seem like an Instagram-fixated confection. But it’s been a classic, way before social media was a glint in a tech fiend’s eye. The food is mainly Provençal, and pretty good, while the wine list is incredible. This place ain’t exactly subtle. But if it’s romance you’re after, Clos Maggiore is hard to beat. closmaggiore.com
5. Hawksmoor Air Street
Mayfair, London
The romantically dimmed lights. The hubbub of pure, undiluted pleasure. The soft leather banquettes. And that wonderful scent of beautifully charred meat. There’s no better way to show your love for your other half (or potential date) than a great hunk of well-hung British beef. Oh, and a bottle or two from their magnificent wine list. thehawksmoor.com
6. The Ritz
St James’s, London
The room is a Rococo, over-the-top riot, all gilded glory, extravagantly ruffled valances and celestially painted ceilings. Waiters wear tails, cloches abound and the cooking, from brilliant head chef John Williams, is old-school haute with the occasional inspired modern touch, Yes, men have to wear jacket and tie. But The Ritz is the very essence of deluxe romance. theritzlondon.com
7. Noble Rot
Holborn, London
I love this place. For its thrilling wine list, the ever-grinning service, and the no-nonsense modern European food – the very quintessence of low-key seasonality. I also love the way they barely blink if a long lunch spills out into an even longer dinner. At night, the lights are dim, the shadows long, and the prospect of dinner with someone you love (or merely just fancy) the most delectable dish of all. noblerot.co.uk
8. Le Manoir Aux Quat’Saisons
Great Milton, Oxford
Raymond Blanc’s magnificent manor is built for romance. From the glorious gardens to executive chef Gary Jones’s world-class food (both reassuringly classical and slyly modern) to seductive rooms and suites, Le Manoir is a paean to the Ars Amatoria. It may not be cheap, but who can put a price on true love? belmond.com
9. The Waterside Inn
Bray, Berkshire
Yes, this Bray landmark has barely changed for years. And the service, as well as the food, is reassuringly old-school. That’s why I still adore it. Who could resist dinner on a warm summer’s eve, with the windows open on to the gently flowing Thames? It sits in an idyllic spot, and if things get a little, well, heated, you could always cancel the cab home. And slip up to one of their rooms. waterside-inn.co.uk
10. The Crown
Burchett’s Green, Berkshire
This is very much a family affair, with chef proprietor Simon Bonwick at the helm, and his sons running front of house. Helping him cook, too. The room is small, but perfectly formed, meaning you sit close to your paramour. Bonwick cooks the sort of mainly old-fashioned French bourgeois grub we all adore. Profess your love over braised venison pie, and seal the deal by sharing a tarte tatin. thecrownburchettsgreen.com
Scotland, Wales and Northern Island
11. The Three Chimneys
Isle of Skye
If the views over Loch Dunvegan don’t blow your mind, the food will. Seriously, head chef Scott Davies uses all those excellent local ingredients, mixes in a little Scandinavian technique and lets the raw materials shine. Once dinner is done, wander back to one of the rooms, pour a large whisky and slip into one of their double tubs. theweehotelcompany.com
12. Kinloch Lodge
Isle of Skye
Skye is romantic enough, but Kinloch Lodge, which sits on the banks of sea-loch na Dal, melds wonderful views with some rather excellent food, with everything from West Coast scallops to Black Island lamb. Wander the hills, stroll through the forest or settle back with a big glass of your favourite single malt. A deux, of course. kinloch-lodge.co.uk
Baked egg custard tart at Y Polyn. Remote, laid-back and deeply hospitable, this is a place where you can truly relax, miles away from the hassle of the everyday world
Stuffed quail at Kinloch Lodge. Skye is romantic enough, but Kinloch Lodge, which sits on the banks of sea-loch na Dal, melds wonderful views with some rather excellent food
Oyster leaf, brandade, tomato; onion galette, beetroot, broccoli flowers at Ox, Belfast
13. The Fife Arms
Braemar
Roaring fires, incredible art (Picasso, Freud and all manner of contemporary masters) and true Scottish hospitality combine to make this hotel one of the most romantic getaways in the country. The Clunie Dining Room makes full use of a vast wood-fired oven, and all that Highland bounty. Walk off lunch in the surrounding Cairngorms, before disappearing into one of the many different rooms. thefifearms.com
14. Inverlochy Castle
Fort William
Not only do you get to stay in a fine old castle, but you also get to eat from a menu created by Albert and Michel Roux Jr. The Venison Wellington is much loved. Take the Gate Lodge for a seriously romantic escape, with its views of Ben Nevis. Or simply totter up the stairs to one of the rooms. inverlochycastlehotel.com
15. Anstruther Fish Bar
Anstruther
A chippy, I hear you cry? Where’s the romance in that? But what can be more romantic than beautifully battered fish, and chips, seasoned with salt and vinegar, eaten straight from the bag, overlooking Anstruther Harbour? One of the country’s great chippies. anstrutherfishbar.co.uk
Lime Wood hotel in Lyndhurst. This is my favourite hotel outside London. And romantic too. With its handsome grounds, and cottages hidden in the woods
The idyllic treehouse at The Lodge on Loch Goil. Yup, another lovely Scottish hotel sitting on another lovely loch. But come on, this is all about romance, folks
Scarlet prawn at Northcote. For the committed romantic, Northcote has it all
16. Ox
Belfast
A Belfast institution, a place where exquisite service meets good modern European cooking. The room is resolutely modern, with its bare walls and filament bulbs. But once night falls, the place is suffused with a softly romantic glow. And with food like this, you cannot fail to impress even the most discerning of dates. oxbelfast.com
17. The Lodge on Loch Goil
Argyll
Yup, another lovely Scottish hotel sitting on another lovely loch. But come on, this is all about romance, folks, something The Lodge has in spades. Perched between the Loch and the mountains, this is very much a serious restaurant with serious rooms. You can even eat your dinner in their famed treehouse. Bring me a higher love, indeed. thelodge-scotland.com
18. Llangoed Hall
Brecon
Sitting in the middle of the Wye Valley, on the banks of the River Wye, Llangoed Hall is a proper old-fashioned country house hotel, with 17 acres of landscaped gardens. And a maze. But it’s blessedly free of any stuffy, po-faced palaver. The restaurant makes full use of the kitchen garden, and they have their own chickens, ducks and quails for eggs. And while the food is high end, it’s never prissy. llangoedhall.co.uk
19. Y Polyn
Carmarthen
Remote, laid-back and deeply hospitable, this is a place where you can truly relax, miles away from the hassle of the everyday world. There are no tablecloths, wine is left on the table and food is laid back and locally sourced. This is a place to escape with someone you love, and revel in the joy of old-fashioned, no-nonsense delight. ypolyn.co.uk
20. The Walnut Tree
Abergavenny
Sean Hill is one of this country’s great chefs, although he’s far too modest to sing his own praises. But here, a few miles from Abergavenny, you’ll find food to make you swoon. Inspiration comes from across the globe (steamed sea bass in dashi broth, Middle White pork with Boston baked beans), but every mouthful is a delight. And to really make things go with a bang, take one of their garden cottages for the night. thewalnuttreeinn.com
South West
21. Lucknam Park
Colerne, Wiltshire
Not far from Bath, Lucknam Park sits in a large, handsome country house. But is, thank God, miles removed from the usual dreary grand hotel experience. There’s a spa, two restaurants (the posh one under Hywel Jones is excellent; The Brasserie is more laid-back). There’s riding, too, and endless romantic walks to enjoy. Get lucky at Lucknam. lucknampark.co.uk
22. Chez Dominique
Bath, Somerset
An old-fashioned, family-run French bistro, with candles on every table and a feeling, as rain pounds down outside, that all is well in the world. Charming service, reliable food and a well-priced wine list make this a genuinely Gallic romantic hotspot. chezdominique.co.uk
Tom assures us that the restaurants here are chosen not for their short-term charms, rather their eternal allure, that enigmatic, mysterious spirit that is made, not bought
23. Lime Wood
Lyndhurst, Hampshire
This is my favourite hotel outside London. And romantic too. With its handsome grounds, and cottages hidden in the woods, and food from Luke Holder and Angela Hartnett, and a feeling that you can do pretty much whatever you please in this most relaxed and flawless of country house hotels. limewoodhotel.co.uk
24. The Glassboat
Bristol, Somerset
The Glassboat sits inside a converted Dutch barge, down in Bristol Docks. But this is no run-of-the-mill chugger, rather a lovingly restored pleasure palace with large picture windows and original oak interior. Seriously romantic. The food is every bit as fine. glassboat.co.uk
25. Brassica
Beaminster, Dorset
There’s no nonsense with trends or philosophies at Cass Titcombe and Louise Chidgey’s splendidly laid-back Dorset restaurant, which means all the more time to stare lovingly across the table, making doe eyes at your dearly beloved. The fish is all locally landed, and most of the meat comes from nearby farmers. Great wine list, too. brassicarestaurant.co.uk
26. The Pig On The Beach
Studland, Dorset
The Pig hotel group revolutionised the country house hotel. No pomp or ceremony, and very relaxed. Yet the service, rooms and food are spot on. They cater to your every whim, without you even noticing. This one looks out over Studland Bay, so go for a long, hand-in-hand stroll down the beach. Or just sit in its bar and take life very slowly indeed. thepighotel.com
27. Gidleigh Park
Chagford, Devon
Old-fashioned, fully upholstered luxury on the edge of Dartmoor, this is one of the great high-end escapes. In the most idyllic surroundings. Executive chef Chris Eden has earned the hotel a Michelin star, and the food is high end without being too fiddly. Fillet of beef, grilled over coals, and served with smoked bone marrow, say. Hell of a wine list, too. And if you really want to push out that boat, book a couple of nights in The Pavilion, its self-contained thatched cottage. gidleigh.co.uk
28. The Gurnard’s Head
Zennor, Cornwall
No more than a pasty’s hurl from the mighty Atlantic Ocean, this is a place for lovers who like it wild. The landscape, that is. Situated between St Ives and St Just on Cornwall’s north coast: expect bracing walks, comfortable beds and lots of locally caught day-boat fish. And dishes such as Thai-style mussels, or hake with spiced aubergine. As well as a few locally foraged bits and pieces. Great food, great location, and great for those eternal romantics, too. gurnardshead.co.uk
29. Coombeshead Farm
Lewannick, Cornwall
A rather magical place, where chef proprietor Tom Adams bakes his own bread, makes his own pickles and ferments, and aims, eventually, to be self-sufficient, relying only on food from the farm. But don’t worry, this is no sanctimonious finger-wagging ordeal, rather a great hotel with good rooms and crackling fires and some of the best food I’ve eaten for years. Oh, and it’s pretty damned romantic. coombesheadfarm.co.uk
30. Paul Ainsworth at No 6
Padstow, Cornwall
Padstow is one of Cornwall’s prettiest towns, and Paul Ainsworth’s Michelin-starred restaurant is situated in an equally pretty Georgian townhouse. Inside, it’s small and elegant and deeply romantic, serving some of the best cooking in the UK. A smoked haddock ‘quiche Lorraine,’ or white crab with leeks royale. Fantastic ingredients, beautifully cooked. paul-ainsworth.co.uk
North
31. Riley’s Fish Shack
South Shields
Love is… sharing a wood-fired oven mackerel flatbread while looking out over a South Shields beach. Oh, and throw in half a local lobster, drenched in garlic butter. And a glass or two of something cold, white and flinty. Riley’s Fish Shack may not be a full-blown restaurant, but it serves up some of the finest fish in the land. rileysfishshack.com
32. Sharrow Bay
Ullswater, Cumbria
An old favourite, way back from the days when the great Frances Coulson held court in the kitchen, the man who made sticky toffee pudding a British star. He’s moved on to the great mis en place in the sky, but the location is as stunning as ever. The food makes the most of good Lake District produce, and you can always disappear upstairs to one of their many rooms. sharrowbay.co.uk
Riley’s Fish Shack may not be a full-blown restaurant, but it serves up some of the finest fish in the land
Native lobster at Paris House. Paris House is a beautiful half-timbered, mock-Tudor house with a resolutely modern restaurant
33. L’Enclume
Cartmel, Cumbria
Simon Rogan may not have put the village of Cartmel on the map. But he’s certainly made it a place of gastronomic pilgrimage. The food is top-notch, as you’d expect, but it’s the rooms, scattered around the village, that have real charm. Eat, drink, be merry. Then wander back through those winding lanes and lock yourself away from the world, For one night, at least. lenclume.co.uk
34. The Star Inn at Harome
Harome, North Yorkshire
Chef proprietor Andrew Pern describes his much-loved and lauded pub as ‘a rustic gourmet bolthole’. And there are no pretensions here, just excellent ‘modern Yorkshire food’. Poultry tea, venison faggots and his own take on a Magnum ice cream. thestaratharome.co.uk
35. White’s
Beverley, East Yorkshire
White’s is understated but beautiful, with plenty of tables for two. Chef proprietor John Robinson sure knows how to make a pretty plate, in a four- or nine-course tasting menu. Featuring the likes of torched mackerel with chicken skin emulsion, and lime mousse with chocolate glaze. whitesrestaurant.co.uk
36. The Pipe and Glass
South Dalton, East Yorkshire
Choose from the Great British Bar, or the Michelin-starred restaurant. Two very different styles of food, both obsessed with the best of local and seasonal ingredients. Log fires burn merrily, staff are plentiful and charming, and the chips, some say, are the best in the UK. Pretty gardens, too. pipeandglass.co.uk
37. Joro
Sheffield, South Yorkshire
A modern Scandinavian restaurant in an upcycled shipping container might not be everyone’s idea of a romantic night out. But chef proprietor Luke Sherwood sure can cook. And the tasting menu is ever-evolving. For couples with a fascination with modern cooking, Joro will fill you with greedy adoration. jororestaurant.co.uk
38. Asha’s
Manchester
Because nothing says I love you like a really good curry. OK, so Asha’s is a cut above the usual flock-wallpapered curry house, with its regal purple leather banquettes and low, sultry lighting. And if you really want to impress, go big – the Emperor’s Platter has tandoori lobster and prawns, lamb chops, venison samosa and tandoori murgh tikka. ashasmanchester.co.uk
39. Northcote
Langho, Lancashire
I’ve had many a merry night at Northcote, deep in the Ribble Valley, where long dinners (cooked by the exceptionally talented executive chef Lisa Goodwin Allen) are matched by a cracking good wine list and deeply comfortable rooms. For the committed romantic, Northcote has it all. northcote.com
40. Freemasons At Wiswell
Wiswell, Lancashire
It’s just come top of the 50 Best Gastropubs 2020, and with good reason. The food is sublime – oxtail pie with English truffle sauce or roast suckling pig with home-made black pudding with the great Steve Smith at the helm. It’s also a laid-back Ribble Valley boozer, with proper Sunday lunches, good beer and rooms you’ll never want to leave. freemasonsatwiswell.com
The Midlands and East
41. Hambleton Hall
Rutland
Somewhat of a legend in the world of country house hotels, not just for its longevity but its obsession with excellence. It’s a place for romantics of every whim –the house, gardens and rooms are effortlessly elegant. As for the food… executive chef Aaron Patterson started at Hambleton in 1984 before returning as head chef in 1992. The cooking is ever classic and always delightful. hambletonhall.com
Terrine of heritage carrots with star anise ice cream at Hambleton Hall. The cooking is ever classic and always delightful
Gingerbread, cheesecake and roast quince at The Fordwich Arms. Fordwich is the smallest town in the UK. But there’s nothing small about the cooking here
Spicy treats at Asha’s in Manchester. If you really want to impress, go big – the Emperor’s Platter has tandoori lobster and prawns, lamb chops, venison samosa and tandoori murgh tikka
42. Opheem
Birmingham
Opheem is where old India meets the new, in a room that at night is softly and seductively lit. Perfect for a romantic feast. The Michelin-starred food is every bit as entrancing, chef proprietor Aktar Islam using traditional techniques for very modern dishes. Try soft shell crab with caraway seed tempura, or beetroot sorbet with candied beets. The spicing is subtle and superb, the ingredients impeccable. opheem.com
43. Morston Hall
Morston Holt, Norfolk
There’s something gloriously unpretentious about Morston Hall. Perhaps that’s down to the laconic and very talented chef patron Galton Blackiston, one of the unsung heroes of British gastronomy. Or the warmth and charm of the staff. Or the beautiful garden, North Norfolk air, and the understated but comfortable bedrooms. morstonhall.com
44. The Gunton Arms
Thorpe Market, Norwich
‘Fire!’ crooned crazy cat Arthur Brown. And here at The Gunton Arms, fires are everywhere. Contained, of course, in the dining room, and the kitchen with its vast open range, cooking venison from the estate, as well as beef from the local herd. The wine list is great, as is the art. As, in fact, are the bedrooms. So set your love alight. Metaphorically, of course. theguntonarms.co.uk
45. Paris House
Woburn
Paris House is a beautiful half-timbered, mock-Tudor house with a resolutely modern restaurant. Chef proprietor Phi Fanning takes inspiration from across the world – ponzu cured mackerel, or char grilled Anjou pigeon – and the dining room is warm, discreetly hushed and deeply romantic too. parishouse.co.uk
The dining room at Hambleton Hall in Rutland. It’s a place for romantics of every whim –the house, gardens and rooms are effortlessly elegant
46. Midsummer House
Cambridge
Daniel Clifford has been shaking the pans at his renowned Cambridge restaurant for over 20 years. But his cooking seems to get better and better, modern but never fussy. The conservatory dining room is flooded with light in the day, and suitably dim and romantic at night. Sit back and prepare for course after course of utter delight. midsummerhouse.co.uk
South East
47. The Whitstable Oyster Co
Whitstable, Kent
They say oysters are the ultimate aphrodisiac. I’m not so sure, but I sure love them. And here, you’ll find Whitstable rocks and natives, hauled from the sea, mere metres away. Add in a plateau de fruits de mer and a bottle of Champagne, and you have a Kentish romance, Whitstable style. whitstableoystercompany.com
48. The Sportsman
Seasalter, Kent
Probably the poshest pub in the land, not so much for the decor, rather the quality of the food. Stephen Harris is a legend, a man who makes his own butter, bread and charcuterie. His cooking is light, lithe and lovely. Even on the glummest of Kent days, The Sportsman is effortlessly romantic. Prepare to fall in lust. thesportsmanseasalter.co.uk
49. The Fordwich Arms
Fordwich, Kent
Fordwich is the smallest town in the UK. But there’s nothing small about the cooking here. Have a pint in the main bar before moving next door to the wood-panelled dining room, with its log fire and clever modern cooking, using excellent Kentish produce where possible. So duck liver parfait with Kentish blackberry, or Rye Bay brill with ceps and white asparagus. It’s the sort of place to linger long after the last mouthful has been devoured. fordwicharms.co.uk
50. Bottega Caruso
Margate, Kent
Sometimes, you just can’t beat old-fashioned Italian. Especially when the restaurant is small, family-owned and run, with a menu that’s filled with Campanian delight. Co-owners Harry Ryder and Simona Di Dio know their stuff, and the polpette, and ragu alla Napolitana are enough to inspire Neapolitan love songs. bottegacaruso.com