A kingfisher flits between branches on the bank as we kayak towards a small group of flamingoes, just specks in the distance.
They are adolescents, our guide explains – hence their pale, almost white feathers – and are loitering away from the rest of the flock, a bit like the teenagers who gather around my corner shop.
This tour of Al Zorah Nature Reserve, a tidal lagoon surrounded by 250 acres of mangrove forest and an ecological treasure trove that is home to 110 species of wildfowl, is just one highlight of my visit to Ajman.
In the pink: Flamingoes in the Al Zorah Nature Reserve, a tidal lagoon surrounded by 250 acres of mangrove forest and an ecological treasure trove in Ajman
It’s hard to believe this tranquil wilderness is less than a 45-minute drive from the bright lights of Dubai. You may not have heard of Ajman but this gorgeous emirate has all the luxury and year-round sunshine of its neighbour while offering a stunning natural – rather than artificial – beauty.
That evening, I take advantage of my hotel’s free shuttle bus to Dubai to shop at the mall and do a spot of sight-seeing. I find myself marvelling at the contrast between the two emirates as I take in the mind-bogglingly futuristic view of frenetic Dubai from the top of the 2,722ft Burj Khalifa tower, the world’s tallest building.
Most of Ajman’s 39 hotels are located along the Corniche – a two mile strip of white sandy beach with warm clear waters that give the Indian Ocean a run for its money. The good news is that you’ll get more bang for your dirham in Ajman, with hotel prices up to a third cheaper than Dubai.
Tourism in this, the smallest of the seven UAE emirates, is still in its infancy. The tourism board was set up only in 2012 and, while the majority of visitors are German and Russian, UK holidaymakers are catching on. They tend to stay here longer too – six or seven days – compared to an average of three or four nights in Dubai.
The family-friendly, five-star Ajman Saray, a Marriott hotel boasts two swimming pools along with a spa
I stayed at the family-friendly, five-star Ajman Saray, a Marriott hotel with two swimming pools, four buzzy restaurants and a spa that left me walking on air after a post-flight massage.
The even ritzier five-star Oberoi Beach Resort is set on the other side of the harbour next to the 18-hole Al Zorah golf course, close to the mangroves where I kayaked. With its jasmine-scented lobby, infinity pool and sleekly designed rooms with floor-to-ceiling windows, it ticks every honeymoon box. Some rooms come with private pools.
Unlike Dubai, in Ajman it’s possible to explore your surroundings on foot. Beyond the immaculate resort hotels, the streets are considerably dustier but have a rough-and-ready charm. What Ajman lacks in glitz compared to its sophisticated neighbour, it makes up for in a slower pace of life and authentic cultural offerings.
It also feels relaxed culturally. I covered my shoulders and wore long cotton dresses outside the hotel, but those who wore less seemed fine.
A short walk from my hotel is the Ajman museum, set in an 18th Century fort that, until 1971, was home to the king and his family. Here, enthusiastic guides teach visitors about the Arabian Gulf’s pearl-diving past and the traditional emirati way of life.
One of the outdoor dining areas at the Ajman Saray. It has a total of four buzzy restaurants
A heritage area of ‘traditional’ cafes, shops and exhibition spaces is under construction outside the museum and is set to open in November.
The impressive Ajman Stud, owned by the crown prince, is set amid desert dunes 18 miles from the centre of Ajman. The stables are home to more than 200 Arabian horses, each more stunning than the last.
The Ajman Stud, owned by the crown prince, is home to more than 300 Arabian horses
They are bred to compete in beauty pageants and prized for their large eyes, finely shaped heads and elegant necks. As we stroll around their living quarters, I take pictures of details like the ornate ceramic tiles, stained glass and lantern-style lights for interior decor inspiration back home.
At the lively fish market, it’s possible to observe the catch being brought in every afternoon on dhows – traditional wooden boats – and unloaded on to low tables on the quay.
It’s exciting to watch as local business people and residents bid for crates of red mullet, bass and mackerel. Back at the hotel, my room’s balcony looks out over the perfect beach.
I enjoyed one of the hotel’s signature Ocean Breeze cocktails in the beach bar on my first night, and I’m glad I did as today is a bank holiday to mark the ascension of the prophet – which means no alcohol after sunset.
I do, though, eat well. Every type of food is available in the hotel, but in the Mejhana Arabic restaurant I have houmous, pomegranate-studded baba ganoush, tabbouleh and flat bread washed down with a lemon and mint smoothie – a deliciously sweet and tangy drink favoured by the emiratis.
I raise an alcohol-free toast to amazing Ajman, a worthy alternative to glitzy Dubai.