Some good news for denim-lovers. If you like denim, but really don’t want an embroidered jacket, stone-washed skinny jeans, or culottes that look like you got them caught in the lawn mower, this spring is the season for you: smart, dark denim is back.
You may remember a long time ago (the Nineties) there was a fashion for Earl Jeans. This was the moment blue jeans got smart: glove-tailored, firm but not stiff and much darker.
You wore them the way you wore tuxedo trousers or a pencil skirt — to parties, with high heels and an It-bag. They were a cut above regular denim — cocktail jeans, in fact.
It awoke everyone to the possibilities of chic denim, and since then, every so often, a smart denim moment comes around to cheer up those of us who aren’t in the market for trashed, distressed, or boyfriend-cut anything; women who crave crisp, well-cut, presentable denim they can wear to the office, or out to lunch or drinks. Trousers. Skirts. Dresses. Jackets. All of the above, and top-to-toe, if possible.
We know that marrying our favourite casual fabric with tailoring is the smart-casual bullseye. And because denim is so easy and versatile — it’s lighter than wool, it doesn’t crush like cotton — you can chuck it in the washing machine (though remember, this new denim is all about looking crisp and ironed).
Denim also has a gently corseting effect. You can tailor it like tweed and get all the structure and support with none of the fuss. Bingo.
Denim trousers, and a denim jacket, not necessarily worn together, are the places to start. The bottoms should be cut like suit trousers, waisted or resting high on the hip, fly-fronted, cropped or long and sometimes turned up.
And instead of a classic Western jean jacket, we’re talking about a double-breasted, single-button or belted safari look.
Tom Ford has a striking, big-shouldered denim suit jacket with a cinched-in waist, and there will be plenty of similar styles in the High Street — L.K. Bennett has a toned down double-breasted version for £275 (lkbennett.com). Wear it with navy trousers or a khaki skirt, or even double up with cropped denim trousers (right, £165).
If you’re looking for a summer work suit, what could be easier than this paired with a lilac top (spring 2018’s magic colour)?
Or, if you want to steer clear of trousers, a sleek denim shirt-dress is a useful staple. I live in mine (one by M.i.h, one by Whistles) come April. They’re remarkably practical — a below-the-knee, grown-up cut that gives you shape in all the right places, with a hint of the youthful spirit of dungarees.
And that’s another bonus: even when it’s at its most polished, denim is still utilitarian and not too serious.
L.K. Bennett has a terrific fit-and-flare shirt-dress (£275), which would work for the office or a smart lunch. Monsoon’s version comes in a slightly lighter wash (£59, monsoon.co.uk), while Warehouse has a belted version (with a shirt tail hem) for when it gets warmer (£42, warehouse.co.uk).
The best thing about all of them is they are thoroughly wearable, with boots, or ankle boots now, or with black slingbacks in a month or two; you could even wear a white or black skinny polo-neck under them until the sun comes out. There are ruched-waist dresses around (not the easiest, let’s be frank) and sleeveless shorter dresses (ditto), but a midi shirt-dress will never let you down.
Otherwise, there’s always the denim skirt, a preppy staple you can pick up in Gap or White Stuff (£49.95, whitestuff.com) that works for the office providing it’s crisp and dark and not too tight, or a jumpsuit — not everyone’s cup of tea, but a denim one can be a surprisingly chic evening option. Mango does a nifty jumpsuit with turn-up sleeves and a ring-tie belt (above, £69.99, mango.com).
The key is keeping the denim clean, sharp and polished. Then you set the tone with accessories: tan ankle boots, gold loafers, little black sandals or a black grosgrain ribbon belt all take the look to different places. With dark denim, like black, you can afford to be adventurous with everything else.
On the Versus catwalk there was a plain denim jacket and skirt worn with a white belt and red ankle-strap sandals, and it looked every bit as chic as a Chanel navy boucle suit.
Don’t you just love it when smart is made so easy?