It’s an area renowned for its grizzly bears, awesome mountains and emerald lakes. But what they don’t advertise is that the Canadian Rockies are also redolent of a charming bygone age.
There is little traffic, drivers give way to pedestrians and everyone is frightfully polite and helpful.
Indeed, if there is anywhere more hospitable than Banff, I have never been there. The city, as they call it, sits in the shadow of Mounts Rundle and Cascade in the Banff National Park, where, if you’re lucky, you can see grizzlies, elk and moose. Try as we might, we didn’t.
Shimmering city: Vancouver’s skyline is reflected in the water with it being known as the ‘glass city’
But we did stay at the Moose Hotel, a recently opened Alpine-style pile close to Banff’s abundance of shops, bars and restaurants. We loved it.
As we did the 40-minute drive north to Lake Louise under bridges and over tunnels which the environmentally conscious Canadians have built especially for the animals that roam there.
At more than 5,000ft above sea level, Lake Louise is at a higher altitude than the peak of our highest mountain, Ben Nevis
It was named after one of Queen Victoria’s daughters. Flanked by huge mountains and an iconic chateau hotel, it is – even by Canada’s extraordinary standards – a breathtaking sight.
Dramatic: The Rocky Mountaineer on its 600-mile journey through the Canadian Rockies
From Banff we took a three-hour drive to Jasper for a 600-mile, two- day trip through the Rockies aboard the Rocky Mountaineer train.
It ambles its way past Mount Robson, the biggest mountain in the Rockies, and along the line of the Thompson River.
John Stapleton and his wife Lynne at the stunning Lake Louise in Banff National Park
You spend the night in the gold rush town of Kamloops before passing through more mountains, waterfalls and rapids – with intriguing names such as the Jaws Of Death Gorge and Hell’s Gate – its stunning scenery, all identified, explained and put in historical context by a helpful crew.
Our last stop was in Vancouver, dubbed the glass city because of the skyscrapers that dominate its shoreline. We took the ‘Hop on, Hop off’ bus, stopping at Granville Island to wander through its market and lunch on fabulous clam chowder by the water.
We stayed at the Fairmont Waterfront, ideal for wandering through Gastown, the oldest and most vibrant district for clubs, bars, and restaurants.
And we popped over to Vancouver Island, nearly four hours by road and ferry, but just half an hour on the plane.
Its main city, Victoria, is the state capital. With its grand old parliament building, restored streets and lush homes (some built by the Victorian settlers) the island couldn’t be more different from Vancouver city.
And this being the end of the Rockies trail, you can almost guarantee service with a smile.