Choose Leith! Once the gritty Trainspotting setting, Edinburgh’s dockland quarter has gone up in the world

Leith, Edinburgh’s idiosyncratic dockland quarter, has historically insalubrious associations.

A one-time stomping ground for sailors and ladies of the night, in the 1990s it infamously became the setting for Irvine Welsh’s heroin addicts in Trainspotting.

But don’t let that put you off. 

The past two decades have seen a steady gentrification, with the introduction of widened boulevards, a tram route, and a plethora of new bars, restaurants and interesting shops.

A perfect place to escape the busiest crowds as the Edinburgh International Festival gets into the swing of things this month (running until August 25), and just a short tram-ride from the Royal Mile’s fusty tartanry. 

‘The past two decades have seen a steady gentrification [of Leith], with the introduction of widened boulevards, a tram route, and a plethora of new bars, restaurants and interesting shops,’ writes Katie 

Leith was once a separate entity from Edinburgh. Fiercely independent, Leithers rejected merging in a 1920 referendum. And while they were forced into amalgamating nevertheless, their civic pride and sense of identity is readily apparent.

Leith Theatre is a shining example. An art deco building that was closed in 1988 but, thanks to the Leith Theatre Trust, has now been brought back to life as a vibrant cultural space, holding concerts and art exhibitions.

The Leith Arches, which was once part of the Caledonian Railway, have been transformed into an atmospheric venue on several levels. Regular markets are held as well as theatre shows and yoga sessions.

The Port of Leith Distillery, seen here, is Scotland’s first vertically arranged distillery – and tours are available to visitors

Royal Yacht Britannia (pictured), Leith’s ‘big attraction’, was in action from 1954 to 1997, with Queen Elizabeth II taking numerous trips on the ship

This is an ideal spot for an early evening drink, with cocktails available and drafts from the local Campervan Brewery.  It’s only a five-minute amble from Leith Walk to Pilot Brewery, whose ‘peach melba sour’ is beloved by locals.

For a spot of harder stuff, try the Port of Leith Distillery, where tours are offered. And don’t forget the Royal Yacht Britannia, Leith’s big attraction, which saw service from 1954 to 1997, with Queen Elizabeth II taking countless voyages, sometimes joined by US presidents including Dwight Eisenhower, Ronald Reagan and Bill Clinton.

All slightly more luxurious than scenes from Trainspotting… Leith has gone up in the world.

Where to stay: Fingal is a Northern Lighthouse Board (NLB) ship repurposed as a delightful five-star hotel with smart rooms and an award-winning restaurant. 

Doubles from £300 (fingal.co.uk). More info: eif.co.uk, edfringe.com.

Katie recommends staying at Fingal, seen here, a Northern Lighthouse Board (NLB) ship repurposed as a five-star hotel with double rooms from £300