Cycling the Loire Valley, a haven of France at its best 

The eponymous river that runs the breadth of France’s Loire region is meandering and discreet. Occasionally it bubbles over rapids and is then becalmed by sandbanks — as we found out twice while kayaking.

‘Stay calm and push off with your oar,’ came the cry from the stern (wife, Karen).

Dutifully, Evie, 11, and Jonah, seven, plus the hapless lead oarsman (me) pushed — and off we drifted again, downstream under medieval bridges and through verdant countryside. Until the next grounding.

With 500 miles of designated cycle ways, two wheels are another way to explore the region. The route hugs the river, starting in Cuffy (near Nevers) and passing through Orleans, Tours and Saumur then on through Angers to Saint-Nazaire. 

Once the centre of royal France, a long line of noblemen, dukes, counts, marquis and barons demonstrated their wealth by building imposing palaces. The 10th-century Chateau de Saumur dominates the skyline and the town that surrounds it.

Here, you’ll find the French National School of Horsemanship, the Cadre Noir, where demonstrations of equine majesty and daring horsemanship make for a fascinating visit. For those who prefer military history, Saumur also has a tank museum (the Musee des Blindes).

Best paddles forward: The Miller clan take to the water for a day of kayaking

A fitting way to glimpse all the castles and leafy vineyards (Anjou Rosé is a wine of the area) is by hot air balloon.

Back on ground level, visit the troglodyte homes peculiar to the area. Inhabited in some cases until the early 20th century, they are now museums, art galleries or quirky B&Bs, many with cave-like rooms fashioned from the soft Tuffeau stone.

We stayed at Flower Camping on the Ile d’Offard, a mile-long islet in the middle of the river near Saumur. It’s a stylish modern lodge with two bedrooms and a large outside deck area. There was an outdoor pool, two toddler pools and a kids’ club.

We enjoyed the old-fashioned games of skittles, shove ha’penny and several other French variants, which are set up every evening in one or other of the squares in the centre of Saumur.

Grape escapes: The vineyards of Sancerre produce some of France’s most quaffable wines

Little seems to quicken the pulse in the Loire, but acclimatise to its rhythm and you’ll discover that life in the slow lane is to be treasured.