Kelly Dunmore, chief lingerie stylist at Rigby and Peller, has fitted thousands of women for bras, here she gives her expert tips to getting it right…
Depending on your breast size and shape, some styles will naturally work better than others. A fuller busted lady will usually feel more comfortable and supported in a full cup style which will also give a nice even, rounded shape. Balcony or sweetheart styles usually work better on smaller busted ladies. Once you’ve found the correct shape for your breast size look out for the following criteria.
The band supplies 80 per cent of the overall support of a bra. This means that it needs to be firm – but not tight! You should be able to run 2 fingers underneath the band all the way around. The band shouldn’t be looser or tighter than this. The band should also sit parallel with the wires – it shouldn’t ride up your back as this is a sign that the band is too loose. We always fit on the loosest hook so that you have room to tighten the bra as the bra will stretch slightly over time.
BOUNCE BACK WIRE
The wire shouldn’t sit on any bust tissue. A quick and easy test is to push the wire when you’re wearing it and see if it bounces back. If it does, the wire is sitting on your bust tissue. This may mean that you need to try a larger cup size or that you need to adjust yourself into the cup better. Always pull your bust tissue forward into your cups and bring the wire back so that it sits behind the tissue.
Cups provide 10 per cent of the overall support of a bra and should fully encompass your bust. There shouldn’t be any gaps or overspill. The bridge (the centre part of the bra) should sit flat against your sternum, though this can depend on your bust shape.
The straps provide 10 per cent of the overall support of a bra. Like the band, they should be firm – not too tight or too loose. You should be able to fit two fingers under each strap comfortably. There should also be room for adjustability on the straps so that you can tighten them as the bra stretches slightly over time.