The beauty industry and celebrities, led by Helen Mirren, are giving up on creams and potions claiming to have ‘anti-ageing’ effects.
Instead, they have turned to a new lexicon to describe efforts to grow old gracefully.
Phrases like ‘anti-ageing’ are out, while in come descriptions for expensively marketed potions such as ‘youth liberator’, ‘lift and luminate’ and even ‘line interception’.
Dame Helen Mirren, 72, raised her concerns about the anti-ageing culture when approached by L’Oréal to promote its ‘Age Perfect’ range
At the forefront of the movement is the American fashion magazine Allure, which last week announced that it was banning the word ‘anti-ageing’.
Editor, Michelle Lee explained the decision, saying: ‘Whether we know it or not, we’re subtly reinforcing the message that ageing is a condition we need to battle.
‘Changing the way we think about ageing starts with changing the way we talk about ageing.’
Dame Helen Mirren, aged 72, is apparently a convert to this approach.
Phrases like ‘anti-ageing’ are out, while in come descriptions for expensively marketed potions such as ‘youth liberator’, ‘lift and luminate’ and even ‘line interception’
She raised her concerns about the anti-ageing culture when approached by L’Oréal to promote its ‘Age Perfect’ range.
The range is built around the ethos ‘Age is no barrier to beauty’, rather than the idea that age and wrinkles are to be defeated.
The actress told the magazine: ‘I said, ‘This word ‘anti-ageing’ – we know we’re getting older. You just want to look and feel as great as you can on a daily basis’.’
In fact, the actress subsequently went a bit further than her beauty company’s paymasters would have liked by suggesting that using moisturiser ‘probably does f*** all’.
The idea that women have really given up on turning back time and are open to letting nature take its course is open to challenge.
In truth, many women have become cynical about being asked to pay a small fortune for products that claim to be anti-ageing, but fail to deliver.
The actress told the magazine: ‘I said, ‘This word ‘anti-ageing’ – we know we’re getting older. You just want to look and feel as great as you can on a daily basis’.’
The Age Perfect range is built around the ethos ‘Age is no barrier to beauty’, rather than the idea that age and wrinkles are to be defeated
At the same time, watchdogs like the Advertising Standards Authority have banned beauty firms from making age defying claims for their serums that cannot be backed up by independent science.
And it is against this background, that manufacturers have had to come up with raft of new euphemisms and marketing slogans for products claimed to help women maintain their youth.
Products that fall into this category include La Prairie’s Line Interception Power Duo, Boots’s No7 Lift & Luminate and YSL’s Forever Youth Liberator ranges.
These flowery names give the impression of remarkable results, but are not sufficiently specific as to run the risk of being censured by the ASA and others.
The actress Juliette Binoche, 53, has been the face of Lancôme, which produces the Advanced Génifique Youth Activating Concentrate. This promises “younger-looking and glowing skin. A serum suitable for every woman: all ethnicities, ages and every skin type dry, combination/normal and oily.”
Alice Hart-Davis, beauty expert and creator of Good Things skincare, said: ‘There’s been a huge change in the way the beauty industry talks about ageing.
‘Older women aren’t half so ‘anti’ ageing as we used to be. It sounds a bit sad and fearful to be so anxious about something as natural and unavoidable as getting older. The beauty companies have picked up on that – wisely, because older women are the ones who spend the most on premium beauty products.’
‘Products are more likely to be called things like ‘youth boost’ or ‘lift and luminate’ than ‘ultimate anti-ageing potion’.
‘If you ask women directly, they don’t want to look miles younger, they’re not hell bent on eradicating all their wrinkles. They just want to look good for their age – fresh, rested, relaxed; the best version of themselves.’
Kristof Neirynck, vice-president and global category director skincare of Walgreens Boots Alliance, which produces the No7 Lift & Luminate, told The Sunday Times: ‘It’s important to have the best possible skin for your age. We are not ‘anti’ growing older and we use positive language in our product names to reinforce this. We are inspired by the modern women around the world who defy the conventions of age.’
Dr Anjali Mahto, consultant dermatologist at the Cadogan Clinic in Chelsea, west London, agreed that beauty brands are moving away from the ‘anti- ageing’ emphasis and now wanted ‘to encourage body positivity and reinforce the idea that ageing is a natural part of life’.
‘With this in mind, to label these products as anti-ageing doesn’t look good from a marketing point of view.’
She said the best way to maintain and improve the skin is to use sunscreen and products that contain retinol — vitamin A, which is ‘scientifically proven over a prolonged period of time to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles’.