Harry Styles is frilled to be at designer’s debut Valentino show in Paris

In fashion, nothing arouses curiosity quite as much as the debut collection of a well-known designer at an even more illustrious house.

Which is why all eyes were on Paris for the Valentino show – the first to be designed by Alessandro Michele, the former Gucci designer who transformed that brand from ‘ok’ to ‘outstanding’, tripling profits and attracting a celebrity fanbase including Salma Hayek, Jared Leto, Florence Welch, Harry Styles and Sir Elton John. 

All were on hand to watch Michele’s Valentino debut, Hayek in a lilac lace dress and matching turban, and Styles in an orange jumper and a ruffled shirt. They were joined by the models Carla Bruni and Karen Elson and the actors Andrew Garfield and Hari Nef.

If these guests tricked the eye into thinking that we were witnessing a Gucci show, so too did the clothes. But only superficially. For those who know their fashion, it was clear that the collection was full of classic Valentino trademarks.

Sir Elton John (left) and David Furnish (right) also attended the Valentino show in Paris 

Wide brimmed hats, polka dots, pantaloons, lace, bows and frills were just a few of the many nods to Valentino Garavani, the 92 year-old Italian who founded the house in Rome in 1959, dressing the world’s most beautiful women – including Princess Diana, Jacqueline Kennedy and Elizabeth Taylor – in his day.

Michele’s skill lies in his presentation of these references, and the way he brings them together to form a collection whose surfeit of strong colours, bold prints and beautiful fabrics works as well on social media as it does on the red carpet. 

For those who like the romanticism of ruffles and lace, or the prettiness of bows and baubles, Valentino will be a hit.

As will the handbags. They are so important to a luxury brand’s profits that some of the models carried two, to emphasise the point. Structured leather bags with gilt chains competed with slouchier suede totes for customers’ favour. 

The collection was Very Valentino, but also very Alessandro Michele.