Two weeks before I visit Shinta Mani Wild, an email appears in my inbox.
It tells me that I have the option to arrive at the retreat by road or to ‘fly in’ via an ‘exhilarating 400m (1,312ft) zipline’.
‘The choice is yours,’ the email reads.
It’s an unusual proposal, one that builds hype for my stay at the all-inclusive ‘tented camp’ buried in the dense rainforest of Cambodia’s Southern Cardamom National Park.
Shinta Mani’s rugged isolation – and the privacy it affords – might be one reason why singer Ed Sheeran and his wife Cherry Seaborn checked in for a stay in 2019.
Ailbhe MacMahon checks into Shinta Mani Wild, a retreat buried in the dense rainforest of Cambodia’s Southern Cardamom National Park. Above is the standalone tub in her quarters – the Butterfly Tent
Ailbhe reveals that the key to her room (above) comes with a pocket knife and a camouflage-print ‘camp survival kit’ that holds mosquito repellent and alcohol swabs
A feature that makes a splash: Above is the retreat’s outdoor swimming pool, called The Cistern
Shinta Mani Wild boasts 15 ‘antique-drenched “tent” suites spread over 800 acres (324 hectares)’
Another could be the adventure-tinged luxury the retreat fosters, with 15 antique-drenched ‘tent’ suites spread over 800 acres (324 hectares), ambrosial dinners prepared with foraged ingredients and unlimited treatments at the straw-roofed spa.
The camp is two and a half hours from the capital Phnom Penh, a drive that begins on a smooth highway and ends along a dusty dirt track.
Pop Im, the ‘adventure butler’ assigned to oversee my stay, is waiting for me at the thatched hut that marks the camp’s entrance, sporting an army green uniform.
With a smile, he asks the all-important question – will I enter by zipline or road?
I pick the zipline.
A jeep, a vintage model used during the Vietnam War, ferries us to the base of a 30m- (98ft) high tower – the zipline’s start line. Guests sometimes change their minds about a zipline arrival when they register just how high up it is, I’m told.
From the summit, I’m volleyed over a blur of emerald jungle and the ‘Raging Sister’ waterfall – part of the watershed of the Tmor Rung River – before being planted inside the camp’s ‘Landing Zone Bar’.
It’s a high-octane, Lara Croft way to make an entrance.
‘I have the option to arrive at the retreat by road or to “fly in” via an “exhilarating 400m (1,312ft) zipline” (pictured),’ says Ailbhe
LEFT: Ailbhe gears up for her descent into luxury. She writes: ‘I’m volleyed over a blur of emerald jungle and the “Raging Sister” waterfall. RIGHT: Zipliners are planted inside the camp’s ‘Landing Zone Bar’
Award-winning architect Bill Bensley devised the hideaway, open since 2018, as an old-school ‘royal glamping’ destination inspired by Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and Cambodian King Sihanouk’s 1967 tour of Cambodia. Above – the Landing Zone Bar
Ailbhe watches ‘meteorological dramatics’ play out from the canopy-covered ‘Headquarters’ restaurant’, above
A dish served at the ‘Headquarters’ restaurant, which Ailbhe describes as ‘excellent’
Bidding a warm welcome, General Manager David Steyn hands me a spiced pineapple cocktail and rolls out a ‘treasure map’ of the camp, one of a handful of Cambodian-owned Shinta Mani retreats.
Award-winning architect Bill Bensley devised this particular hideaway, open since 2018, as an old-school ‘royal glamping’ destination inspired by Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and Cambodian King Sihanouk’s 1967 tour of Cambodia. Accordingly, one tent is named after Onassis, another is ‘The Cambodian Royalty’ tent (Ed Sheeran’s sleeping quarters, apparently).
The low-impact, high-design tent I am shown to is ‘The Butterfly’. Carved wooden panels, towers of hardback books and a bird-watching station lend it the distinguished feel of a scholar’s den. And there are more Lara Croft touches – the room key comes with a pocket knife and a camouflage-print ‘camp survival kit’ holds mosquito repellent and alcohol swabs.
Outside lies the ‘maxibar’, stocked with curated wines, Cambodian craft beer and ramekins of mango sorbet. All food and drinks are included in the steep price per night of £1,691 ($2,187). I’m instructed to pull the shutter over the liquor cabinet when it’s not in use, in case monkeys finagle their way to the bar snacks.
General Manager David Steyn hands Ailbhe a spiced pineapple cocktail when she ‘lands’ and rolls out a ‘treasure map’ of the camp
The Cambodian Royalty tent at Shinta Mani Wild, where Ed Sheeran apparently stayed
An hour into my arrival, a tropical thunderstorm rips across the valley, pelting the trees with steamy bursts of rain. I watch the meteorological dramatics play out from the canopy-covered ‘Headquarters’ restaurant, where creative tasting menus waltz from snakehead fish with peppery wildflower salad to sweet yellow bean dumplings.
At breakfast, I watch guests zipline into the retreat as I spoon homemade pineapple jam onto pastries. It’s fuel for the excursions Pop has planned, complimentary activities that vary from mountain biking to cruising along the nearby Srey Ambel Estuary on a custom pontoon boat.
The standout excursion of my stay revolves around conservation. I’m invited to join an anti-poaching patrol with rangers of the Wildlife Alliance non-profit, which has a Shinta Mani-funded ranger station. Accompanied by a gun-toting police officer, we go deeper into the national park on motorbikes, eventually trekking on foot when the path disappears. Pop, an expert on the area’s ecology, slashes undergrowth with a blade to aid our advance.
The ‘standout excursion’ of Ailbhe’s visit is joining an anti-poaching patrol (publicity image above)
Ailbhe goes on a cruise along the Srey Ambel Estuary on the pontoon boat – a custom-designed expedition boat
The camp (above, just visible among the trees) is two and a half hours from the capital Phnom Penh, ‘a drive that begins on a smooth highway and ends along a dusty dirt track’
LEFT: A memento left by Ed Sheeran after his 2019 stay. RIGHT: Waterfalls by the retreat that Ailbhe admires
Ed Sheeran visited Shinta Mani Wild with his wife, Cherry
No evidence of poaching is discovered on my outing, but it’s a rich introduction to this precious wildlife corridor, called home to critically endangered species that include Sunda pangolins and Siamese crocodiles.
The rangers animatedly discuss their work as we move through the intense heat. Pop points to the ground, revealing a crater-like footprint and a clod of dung – telltale signs we have just missed roving elephants. When shrill calls echo from above, he announces: ‘That is a family of pileated gibbons.’ Moments later, I follow Pop’s gaze to the sky, where a crested serpent eagle soars with a doomed snake dangling from its beak.
My attention returns to the sky that evening, this time to watch the sunset during Shinta Mani’s open-air cocktail party. The Khmer Tonics spa team give foot massages in waterfall pools and guests chat into the night, swapping tales of their time in the rainforest.
Listening to these stories, Shinta Mani’s magnetism is obvious. Championing conservation, exploration and luxury in equal measure, this retreat is nothing short of a jungle nirvana.
TRAVEL FACTS
Ailbhe gives Shinta Mani Wild a five-star rating
Ailbhe MacMahon was hosted by Shinta Mani Wild – A Bensley Collection. Rates start from £1,691 ($2,187) per tent per night plus applicable service charge and taxes. Rates are inclusive of all food and beverages; private guided activities and excursions; unlimited spa treatments; a personal adventure and land transfers from Phnom Penh or Sihanoukville airports. Stays are a minimum of three nights and children must be aged 10 or over. Visit www.shintamani.com.
How guests get around: There’s a network of pathways through the trees that guests follow. Ailbhe’s tent was around a five-minute walk from the base camp. At nighttime staff accompany guests with lanterns.
Pros: Shinta Mani Wild offers total immersion in a beautiful, wild stretch of Southeast Asia. The ultra-varied complimentary activities and spa treatments nurture a seamless blend of adventure and relaxation. The adventure butlers, and the team in general, anticipate every need – and are warm, charismatic and passionate to boot. The food is excellent, brimming with imagination and celebrating Cambodian produce. Creative, playful interior design underpins the whole experience.
Cons: The price, though all activities, spa treatments, wining and dining are included.
Rating out of five: *****
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