Makeup artist Julia Stronach, 33, creates age-defying transformation for her aunt Sandra

A makeup artist who shaved years off her 80-year-old aunt’s appearance with clever cosmetic tricks has revealed the techniques and products she uses to achieve flawless skin at every age – and some cost as little as $12.

Julia Stronach turned back time on her aunt Sandra’s face for her birthday party in April 2019 by applying thick primer, sheer foundation, a blend of matte and shimmered eyeshadow and orange concealer beneath her eyes to hide dark circles.

The 33-year-old from Aberdeen in northeast Scotland said the secret to perfecting a youthful complexion is avoiding heavy cosmetics and subtly filling only the top line of the eyebrows because heavy-handed drawing overpowers features and ages the face. 

Ms Stronach told Daily Mail Australia that over-lining lips should only be done around the cupid’s bow and never along the edges, which makes the area around the mouth appear crooked and older.

She said poorly applied false eyelashes, jagged eyeliner and badly matched foundation shades are the most common mistakes she sees women make which instantly add years and ironically enhance the very features they are trying to hide.

 

Julia Stronach’s aunt Sandra on her 80th birthday, before (left) and after (right) her incredible transformation that shaved years off her appearance

Scottish makeup artist Julia Stronach, 33, who is an expert in bridal cosmetics

Scottish makeup artist Julia Stronach, 33, who is an expert in bridal cosmetics

FOR THE SKIN

Ms Stronach always takes a few minutes to analyse her clients’ facial features before applying products to determine what will suit them best.

For most customers including her aunt Sandra, she starts by dabbing $12.25 Makeup Obsession Pore Blurring Primer all over the face to ensure makeup stays in place all day long.

The affordable primer, which is available from Target, fills pores and covers fine lines for smooth and seamless application of foundation and concealer.

‘It has a soft, velvety touch and literally creates a ‘second skin’. It’s so affordable and great for scarring too,’ Ms Stronach said.

Once the primer has settled, she uses a damp egg shaped sponge to apply Charlotte Tilbury’s $65 Light Wonder foundation, a sheer base that makes skin glow and enhances its natural radiance without smothering it.

‘This is my holy grail. It’s also the perfect every day product if you don’t like anything too thick,’ she said.

Dampening the sponge encourages makeup to absorb deeper into the skin, helping it to stay on longer and creating a natural finish that makes it look like a ‘second skin’.

Although conventional teaching says contouring and shimmering pigments should be avoided on mature faces, Ms Stronach assesses each client individually and adds subtle contouring with cream and powder where she feels appropriate.

She uses Kevyn Aucoin’s $70 sculpting powder to contour the cheeks, jawline and nose, enhancing features to make the face appear younger and more defined. 

‘It’s a great product because it has a realistic ‘ash’ tone as opposed to being too warm,’ she said.

Ms Stronach also swears by Mac’s $55 Whisper of Gilt highlighter to add radiance and make skin appear lightly sun-kissed. She applies this along the cheekbones, down the length of the nose and in the inner corner of the eyes.

She finishes by dusting a light $62 loose setting powder from Laura Mercier over the T-zone, covering the forehead, nose, chin and area circling the mouth which are prone to oiliness to prevent breakouts and shine from showing through.

Kevyn Aucoin and Laura Mercier products are available from Mecca online and in-store nationwide.

Makeup artist Julia Stronach working on a bride on May 28, 2019

Makeup artist Julia Stronach working on a bride on May 28, 2019

The three biggest makeup mistakes

1. Badly applied false lashes

‘They always make the lash band large enough to accommodate all eye sizes, but nine times out of 10 they need to be trimmed or else they wont sit on the eye correctly. They will look strange, and be uncomfortable. 

‘Cut from the longest outer edge as you want to keep the inner short lashes – that’s how real lashes actually look. Lashes should be fixed 1/4 way along the lashline (or a finger space from the tear duct) to avoid jabbing or scratching. This causes the eye to water, and can make lashes lift.

2. The infamous ‘tide mark’

‘This is when people only apply foundation to their jawlines and above. If the shade is even slightly off, it will stick out like a sore thumb.

‘Instead always apply makeup to your neck too for a seamless result and try to get your correct shade in the first place! If your foundation is too dark, use a lighter concealer to balance it, especially around your jawline.

3. Jagged or shaky eyeliner

‘Liner can be tricky, but this often happens when people close their eyes or pull the skin when applying it. This causes the skin to ‘crumple’ when released, so its never straight or sharp. 

‘Instead, keep the eyes open. Tilt your head back so you can see your eye, and do it one dab at a time, working your way along. Take your time and keep it thin, you can always thicken it if needs be. Lean on something, and practice when you have no other eye makeup on so if you mess it up you can start again and try until you get it right.’

Source: Julia Stronach aka Julz Platinum

FOR THE EYES

Ms Stronach spends most time on the eyes, avoiding dark shadows which make them appear dull and sunken in favour of neutral shades and light concealer concealer around the brow bone and under eye area.

She ‘colour corrects’ dark tones beneath the eyes by gently dabbing an orange or peach shade of NARS $48 Creamy Concealer with her fingertips.

‘This works because orange is opposite blue on the colour wheel, so it effectively cancels it out,’ she said.

‘You can then use the actual skin match on top, but if you don’t colour correct, the dark tones will glow through and appear grey.’ 

On the upper eyelid and brow bone she sticks to light shades to enhance the eyes and bring them forward, while using a mixture of matte and shimmering pigments on the main body of the lid.

A client of Ms Stronach's with flawless foundation and brown eyeshadow shaded beneath her eyes, which makes them appear wider

A client of Ms Stronach’s with flawless foundation and brown eyeshadow shaded beneath her eyes, which makes them appear wider

‘If the skin on the lid is crepe [loose or folding], stick to mattes, but if you have tighter skin there’s no reason why you can’t use a shimmer like I did on my aunt.’ 

She uses MAC’s $38 ‘Vanilla’ pigment along the brow bone to create the illusion of higher eyebrows and a younger complexion, and Anastasia Beverley Hills’ $33 Dip Brow Pomade and a $25 Inglot brush to subtly fill brows for a natural finish.

‘Never apply brow product below the natural brow position as this can look masculine,’ she said. ‘Always add volume above.’

She also uses brown eyeshadow beneath the eyes and subtle false eyelashes in the outer corners to widen and define the lashline while maintaining a natural finish.

Ms Stronach recommends using a brown or navy mascara instead of black for fairer or mature complexions, as any intense colour around the eyes instantly ages the face.

Ms Stronach’s tips for ageless skin

1. Avoid thick bases

‘Even at 33, if I use anything to heavy, it sinks in and separates, giving me lines I don’t even have yet. Even if you do need coverage in certain areas, for example for redness, scarring, liver spots, etc. it doesn’t mean you need to mask the entire face. The same goes for younger clients with acne.’

Ms Stronach recommends using a sheer base with spot cover where necessary. ‘While I do have a good few ‘budget buys’ in my kit, I recommend investing in  more expensive foundations and concealers,’ she said.

2. Focus on eyebrows

‘A nice, strong brow takes years off a person instantly. It creates a look of youth and health. Sparse, fair brows can be gently enhanced with a few light brown or blonde brush strokes or something more bold if the look commands it.

3. Over-line the cupid’s bow

‘Some people are afraid to do it, but I like to over-line lips if they are particularly thin. I am careful not to go too off piste though or it looks artificial. I only over-line the cupids bow and never down the outlines, which is far more flattering.’

4. Avoid matte finishes

‘Instead think healthy, dewy and sun-kissed to take years off. Of course, if you have particularly oily skin then use powder but only on the T zone; there is rarely a need to mattify your cheeks, temples, and jawline.’

5. Use brown eyeshadow under the eye

‘Making the eyes look bigger will make the face look younger. I normally achieve this by applying some lower lash definition with the Inglot 31t brush and some brown eyeshadow as eyeliner. I apply a thin line, then smudge it out a little. Then I take a skin coloured eye pencil and create a nude waterline to really make the eyes pop. Try using nude in place of black for a softer day look.’

6. Apply foundation with a damp sponge

‘This prevents the base looking too thick and helps it stay on longer by pressing it more deeply into the skin. I use brushes too, but always go over it with a sponge.’  

Source: Julia Stronach aka Julz Platinum

FOR THE LIPS  

Ms Stronach carefully lines the lips with a light pencil, drawing slightly above the cupid’s bow on the upper lip to make it appear fuller but sticking strictly to the line of the lower lip to ensure the look remains natural. 

She applies a matte lipstick with a slick of liquid lip balm on top to reduce the dry, flaky texture that builds once matte formulas harden in place.

‘My secret with lipstick is to avoid sheer or glossy lipsticks – they don’t have the same staying power as their matte counterparts,’ she said. 

A second client of Ms Stronach's, with glistening highlighter applied to the brow bone and inner corner of her eyes to enhance them and a slightly over-lined cupid's bow to make lips appear plumper

A second client of Ms Stronach’s, with glistening highlighter applied to the brow bone and inner corner of her eyes to enhance them and a slightly over-lined cupid’s bow to make lips appear plumper

‘If you don’t like the feel of mattes, get the best of both worlds and apply a little Vaseline over the top of your matte lippy to eliminate the dry feel.

‘Of course, if you just want a super natural nude lip look a gloss on its own is fine too.’

Julia Stronach is a bridal makeup specialist and author of ‘Business for Makeup Artists: How to grow your business fast’.

Her book is available to buy on Amazon for $16.94 in paperback, or $13.98 on Kindle. 

Every product Ms Stronach uses to paint an age-defying, flawless face

FOR THE BASE

Makeup Obsession Pore Blurring Primer – $12.25 at Target

This thick, budget primer fills pores and covers lines to allow for seamless application of foundation or tinted moisturiser. 

‘It has a soft, velvety touch and literally creates a ‘second skin’. It’s so affordable and great for scarring too,’ Ms Stronach said.

FOR CONCEALER

NARS Creamy Concealer – $48 at Mecca

Ms Stronach uses this cult favourite concealer on all ages from teens to great grandmothers. 

She usually applies three shades, one to match the actual skin tone, a lighter colour for highlighting and a peach or orange shade to correct dark circles under the eyes. 

FOR FOUNDATION

Charlotte Tilbury Light Wonder – $65 from Charlotte Tilbury Australia

Ms Stronach uses this ‘holy grail’ foundation for natural looks because it adds a glowing radiance without ever ageing skin.

‘It’s the perfect every day product if you don’t like anything too thick,’ she said.

FOR CONTOUR

Kevyn Aucoin Sculpting Powder – $70 from Mecca

Ms Stronach uses this to contour the cheeks, jawline and nose.

‘It’s a great product because it has a realistic ‘ash’ tone as opposed to being too warm,’ she said.

FOR HIGHLIGHT

MAC Whisper of Gilt – $55 from MAC Australia

Ms Stronach loves this highlighter because of its gentle golden shade that creates the illusion of lightly tanned skin all year around.

FOR EYEBROWS

Anastasia Beverley Hills Dip Brow Pomade and Inglot Brow Brush 31t – $33 from Sephora and $25 from Inglot Australia

Ms Stronach said it’s crucial to use an eyebrow brush with a fine tip so that you can draw natural looking strokes. 

FOR SETTING

Laura Mercier Translucent Loose Setting Powder – $62 from Mecca 

Ms Stronach uses this setting powder for clients of all ages to ensure makeup stays in place all day long without appearing caked.

Source: Julia Stronach aka Julz Platinum



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