Love Sauvignon Blanc? Fan of Albariño? Then you’ll adore the glory of Godello. This piercingly zesty white grape from north-western Spain was nearly extinct in the Seventies. But today it’s rocketing back into fashion, and for this summer’s all-round white, it’ll brighten your evenings and weekends with its dazzling deliciousness.
The natural characteristics of Godello tend towards pristine zestiness. Bursting with citrus refreshment, this breaking wave of freshness is enhanced by the cool Atlantic conditions of Galicia, where this grape thrives.
Valdeorras, whose name means ‘valley of gold’, is the furthest inland region of Galicia, bringing a bit more warmth and producing some of the very finest examples – well worth looking out for in shops and on restaurant wine lists.
While most Godello is unoaked, emphasising its cutting character, you can also find examples that have been fermented or aged in oak barrels for a richer experience. I reckon the most impressive current importer of artisanal Spanish wines here in the UK is Indigo Wine, and if you really want to taste the true glory of Godello, try the Louro I’m recommending, which they bring in from Rafael Palacios. It’s a bottle that, bang for buck, is among the most exciting white wines on the planet right now and blows the refreshment scale into a whole new dimension.
But if everyday value is what you’re after, there are some good opportunities to glimpse Godello on the high street with some decent own-label options to stick in the fridge. Try Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference Godello 2016, currently on offer with a pound off for £8, which, alongside the usual core of minerally freshness, has a twist of something exotic about it.
As for when to drink it? All summer long is a pretty good bet, but as far as food pairing goes, Godello is stunning with seafood and salads.
If you’re hunting that elusive bottle to lure you away from Sauvignon Blanc or Albariño, the stunner of the summer is Godello’s new groove.