Running France’s booze marathon, which has 23 wine-tasting stations
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Under normal circumstances, encountering a giant snail, a stick of celery, and a trio of naked chefs might raise concern, but not today. I had been running for hours in scorching summer heat, with temperatures in the 30s and humidity building up, making heat-induced hallucinations plausible. Yet, this was the Marathon des Chateaux du Medoc, the world’s quirkiest and most boozy marathon. Participants must wear fancy dress, and this year’s theme was ‘gastronomy,’ explaining the presence of snails and chefs. However, the event’s allure goes beyond the average fun run.
This marathon covers a full 26.2 miles through the famous Medoc region near Bordeaux, passing vineyards and chateaux. What sets it apart are the 23 wine-tasting stations along the route, offering fine Bordeaux wine to runners. But it’s not just about wine; it’s also about the eclectic range of food, including blue cheese, cake, steak, oysters, and even a chocolate fountain, making it an extraordinary event.
I refrained from excessive wine sampling and opted for an early night in Bordeaux. The next morning, I caught the 7.29 am train to Pauillac for the 9.30 am race start. Bordeaux’s station saw hundreds of runners in creative costumes emerging. The race began with runners embracing the ‘gastronomy’ theme. With my chef’s attire, I blended in. After joining the queues for the limited toilets, the race started. We encountered a wine-tasting station but decided it was too early to indulge. We began on roads and then entered the first of over 60 vineyards with perfectly aligned rows of grapes stretching for miles.
Reaching the first wine-tasting station was exciting, but it ran out quickly. Many runners sped up to ensure they wouldn’t miss out at the next chateau, though there was plenty of wine at the remaining 22 stations. I had my first glass with some hesitation, but it tasted fantastic, and my body felt fine. It became clear that not having a glass of Bordeaux wine during future runs would be a missed opportunity. I tried various vintages and balanced the wine with water. The marathon settled into a rhythm after about ten kilometers, with live bands and chateau gates marking wine stops.
Our tired legs led us to 18th-century buildings and wine-tasting stations where staff poured wine, offered food, water, and even massages. We had to keep moving to finish within the six-hour and 30-minute time limit, as a broom wagon followed behind. Despite some costume mishaps, like my falling plastic vegetables, it was a lot of fun, and runners were in high spirits, making playful comments about each other’s costumes.
Under the relentless sun, we continued running, fueled by fine red wines like Chateau Lafite-Rothschild. The French scenery, with charming villages and vineyard-lined lanes, was picturesque. The last 10 kilometers were challenging as we hit a sun-soaked, featureless road back to Pauillac. At the 40th kilometer, oysters were offered, paired with white and rose wine, a surprising but welcomed treat in the heat.
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