GRILLED SARDINES WITH FETA, ORANGE AND CUCUMBER SALAD
The Society’s Greek White 2022 (12.5%) £8.95, thewinesociety.com
Serves 4
- 12 sardines, gutted, descaled and butterflied
- Olive oil, for brushing
- Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
- Lemon wedges, for squeezing
- Chunky bread, for mopping
For the dressing
- 2tsp Dijon mustard
- 2tbsp ouzo
- A pinch of caster sugar
- 6tbsp olive oil
- Grated zest of 1 orange (use one from the salad, see below)
- 1 red onion, sliced
For the salad
- 2 medium cucumbers
- 2tbsp chopped fresh
- Oregano leaves
- 2 oranges, zest of 1 reserved for the dressing (see above), both segmented
- 300g (10½oz) feta cheese, crumbled
First, make the dressing. Place all the ingredients except the red onion in a bowl, season to taste, and whisk to combine.
Add the onion and leave to stand for 10 minutes.
Now make the salad. Halve the cucumbers lengthways and scoop out the seeds with a teaspoon. Cut the deseeded halves into slices on an angle and tip them into a large bowl.
Add the dressing, followed by the oregano and orange segments and toss everything together well.
Arrange the salad on a platter and scatter with the feta.
Preheat the grill to its highest setting. Brush the butterflied sardines with a little olive oil and season with salt and black pepper.
Place the fish skin-side up on a grill tray and cook under the grill for 4 minutes. Set aside to rest for 4 minutes; the residual heat will finish the cooking.
Once cooked, arrange the sardines on the platter with the salad and take to the table so that everyone can help themselves.
You can eat the sardines straight away or let them cool and eat them cold.
Whichever way you choose, serve with lemon wedges for squeezing and chunks of bread alongside to mop up the juices.
Nathan says: Any fish you buy in a shop will probably be ready-gutted, but if not, you can ask your fishmonger to do it for you.
Olly Smith’s wine pairing: Super with sardines
The Society’s Greek White 2022 (12.5%) £8.95, thewinesociety.com
Scented and soaring with freshness, this Greek white is a fragrant whirl of deliciousness. Stunning when sipped with sardines, it’s sheer brilliance for under £10.
LING POACHED IN HERBED OIL WITH SUMMER VEGETABLES
Finest Viñas del Rey Albariño 2022 (13%) £9.50, Tesco
Serves 4
You will need to make the herbed oil 24 hours in advance
- 600g (1lb 5oz) ling fillet, skinned, pin-boned and cut into 12 equal pieces (or use haddock, big plaice fillets or monkfish)
- Sea salt
For the herbed oil
- 400ml (14fl oz) olive oil
- 4 bay leaves
- 3 sprigs of thyme, leaves picked
- 2 sprigs of rosemary, leaves picked
- 6 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
- 3tsp fennel seeds
- 3tsp coriander seeds
For the vegetables
- 100g (3½oz) new potatoes, skin on
- 100g (3½oz) green beans
- 100g (3½oz) peas
- 1 fennel bulb, trimmed and thinly sliced, herb fronds reserved
- 12 radishes, halved
- 100g (3½oz) chard leaves, finely shredded
- 2 ripe tomatoes, quartered, seeds removed, then each quarter halved again to garnish
- 1tbsp sliced mint leaves
- 1tbsp each chopped chives and flat-leaf parsley
- ½tbsp chopped tarragon
- Grated zest of 1 lemon
- Freshly ground black pepper
Place all the herbed oil ingredients in a pan and warm until the oil is just hot but not smoking.
Transfer to a blender and blitz for 2 minutes.
Transfer to a container and leave for 24 hours.
Cook the potatoes in a pan of boiling water until tender.
Blanch the green beans and peas in boiling water. Drain everything and set aside.
Preheat the oven to 140°C/fan 120°C/gas 1. Pour the herbed oil through a sieve into an ovenproof pan or roasting tin that is big enough to hold the potatoes in a single layer.
On the hob, heat the oil to 120°C, using a temperature probe to monitor.
Add the potatoes in a single layer, then add the fennel slices, radishes and chard, transfer to the oven and roast for 10 minutes.
Season the fish with sea salt and place it in with the potatoes. Roast for 6 minutes, flipping the fish halfway through if the oil doesn’t completely cover it.
Add the beans, peas and tomatoes and roast for 4 minutes, or until the fish is cooked through.
Sprinkle with the herbs, fennel fronds, lemon zest and black pepper. Either serve in the dish or carefully lift from the oil and arrange on warmed plates.
Nathan says: Swap in different herbs and spices and always use the best seasonal vegetables you can find.
Olly’s wine pairing: Luscious with ling
Finest Viñas del Rey Albariño 2022 (13%) £9.50, Tesco
A splendidly pure Spanish white from the Galician coast, this is not only outstanding with the summery ling dish, but a wine you’ll want to sip whenever the sun comes out.
GREEN GAZPACHO WITH CRAB AND WALNUTS
Château Barthès Bandol Rosé 2021 (13.5%) £14, Co-op
Serves 4
- 200g (7oz) picked white crabmeat (or use poached lobster, cooked scallops or smoked mackerel)
- Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the green gazpacho
- 1 celery stick, sliced
- 1 small green pepper, deseeded and chopped
- 150g (5½oz) cucumber, peeled and sliced
- 1 courgette, sliced
- 100g (3½oz) stale white bread, crusts removed
- 1 green chilli, deseeded and chopped
- 1 garlic clove, sliced
- 1tsp sugar
- 50g (1¾oz) walnut halves, lightly toasted
- 100g (3½oz) baby spinach leaves
- 30g (1oz) fresh tarragon, leaves picked
- 10g (¼oz) fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped
- 2tbsp cider vinegar
- 100ml (3½fl oz) extra-virgin olive oil
- 60g (2¼oz) full-fat Greek yoghurt
- 200ml (7fl oz) water
- 150g (5oz) ice cubes
- 2tsp sea salt
- Ground white pepper, to taste
To garnish
- 4 pickled walnuts, chopped
- ½ a cucumber, peeled and finely diced
- 1 green apple, peeled, cored and finely diced
- 1 small green pepper, deseeded and finely diced
- 1tbsp chopped tarragon
- 1tbsp finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
- 6tbsp olive oil
Mix all the ingredients for the green gazpacho in a bowl, cover and refrigerate for up to 24 hours – for the best results do this the day before you are going to serve the gazpacho.
Transfer the green gazpacho to a blender or food processor and blend for 2 minutes, or until smooth.
Place a sieve over a clean bowl and pass the gazpacho through it, using the back of a ladle or large spoon to squeeze as much through the sieve as possible.
Discard the contents of the sieve and chill the gazpacho again.
Place the white crabmeat in a bowl and season to taste with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, then refrigerate.
Mix all the garnish ingredients together in a bowl and season with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Set aside.
Before serving, chill 4 bowls for 30 minutes in the freezer.
To serve, divide the gazpacho between the chilled bowls and top each with the crabmeat and a generous spoonful of garnish. Serve immediately.
Nathan says: This is great for a party, and actually benefits from being made well in advance as it gives the flavours time to mingle.
Olly’s wine pairing: Cracking with crab
Château Barthès Bandol Rosé 2021 (13.5%) £14, Co-op
A treat thanks to its intense flavours and generous concentration of fruit, this southern French beauty has gentle raspberry refreshment and a succulence to match crab’s bold impact.
THE BBQ MACKEREL SUB
Isoletta Lucido Pinot Grigio 2022 (12%) £5.49, Morrisons
Serves 4
- 4 large mackerel, heads removed, gutted, filleted and pin-boned (or use sardines, herring or grey mullet)
- 4 large sub-style rolls, halved
- Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 1 lime, cut into wedges, to serve
For the marinade
- 4tsp fennel seeds
- 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
- 4tsp chopped thyme
- 1tsp chilli flakes
- 2tsp sea salt
- Grated zest of 2 limes
- 100ml (3½fl oz) olive oil
For the anchovy, mint and coriander dressing
- 3 anchovy fillets in oil, drained
- 1½tbsp lime juice
- 50g (1¾oz) coriander leaves
- 50g (1¾oz) mint leaves
- About 150ml (¼pt) olive oil
For the salad garnish
- 1 red onion, finely sliced
- 1tbsp sliced jalapeños (from a jar), chopped
- 4 ripe tomatoes, diced
- A small bunch of coriander, roughly chopped
- 2tbsp olive oil
First make the marinade.
Toast the fennel seeds in a hot, dry pan until fragrant.
Tip into a food processor and add the garlic, thyme, chilli flakes, salt and lime zest. Pour in the olive oil and add a few turns of black pepper, then blitz for 1 minute.
Light the barbecue around 30 minutes before you are planning to start cooking. Lay the fish on a baking tray and rub all over with the marinade, then set aside.
For the dressing, place the anchovy fillets in a food processor with the lime juice, coriander and mint, and blend for 1 minute.
With the motor running, gradually add enough olive oil to give the consistency of a thick pesto dressing. Season with salt to taste.
For the garnish, toss the red onion, jalapeños, tomatoes and coriander in a bowl. Season, then add the olive oil and mix well. Set aside.
To cook the fish, scrape off any excess marinade and lay the mackerel skin-side down on the barbecue grill. Don’t be tempted to move it or you may tear the skin. The flesh will quickly turn from pink to white as it cooks.
When each fillet is white three-quarters of the way through, carefully turn it over onto a lightly oiled baking tray, then slide it back on the barbecue for 1 minute to finish cooking.
Place the rolls cut-side down on the barbecue until toasted. Lay the fish on the rolls and serve immediately with the salad, dressing and lime wedges.
Nathan says: Mackerel is the perfect fish for a barbecue – the skin crisps up and chars, protecting the rich, oily flesh beneath.
Olly’s wine pairing: Barbecue brilliance
Isoletta Lucido Pinot Grigio 2022 (12%) £5.49, Morrisons
For a good-value glugger, this party white is blessed with simple vitality, alongside lemony flair and a hint of peachiness too. A no-brainer if you’re after a barbecue bargain.
COD STEAKS WITH FIVE-PEPPER HOLLANDAISE AND GRILLED FENNEL
Specially Selected Rioja Rosado (13%) £6.99, Aldi
Serves 4
- 4 x 250g (9oz) cod steaks (or use turbot, brill steaks or anglerfish)
- 100ml (3½fl oz) olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
- 3 fennel bulbs, tough outer layer removed, cut into quarters
- Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
- Buttered new potatoes, to serve
For the five-pepper spice mix
- 1tsp black peppercorns
- 1tsp pink peppercorns
- 1tsp Szechuan peppercorns
- 1tsp green peppercorns
- 1tbsp finely chopped rosemary
- 2tsp sea salt
- ¼tsp cayenne pepper
- Grated zest of 2 lemons
For the five-pepper hollandaise sauce
- 250g (9oz) salted butter
- 3 egg yolks
- Juice of ½ a lemon, plus extra to taste
- 4tsp five-pepper spice mix (see above)
First, make the spice mix. Toast the black, pink, Szechuan and green peppercorns in a hot, dry pan with the rosemary and salt until fragrant. Add the cayenne pepper and lemon zest, tip into a small food processor and blitz for 1 minute.
Place the cod steaks in a dish or large plastic container with a lid. Reserve 4tsp of the five-pepper spice mix for the hollandaise sauce and mix the rest with the olive oil.
Pour over the fish and toss until completely coated, then cover with a lid and leave to marinate in the fridge for at least 2 (or up to 6) hours.
Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil, add the fennel and cook for 6-8 minutes, until it starts to soften but is still quite firm. Drain and space out on a tray to cool, then drizzle with olive oil and season.
To make the hollandaise sauce, melt the butter in a pan over a medium heat until it begins to bubble, then remove from the heat and leave to cool until tepid.
Meanwhile, place the egg yolks, lemon juice and reserved five-pepper spice mix in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of hot water on a medium-low heat (making sure the base of the bowl is not touching the water).
Heat while whisking until the mixture thickens enough to form ribbons when you lift the whisk.
Remove the bowl from the pan and slowly whisk in the melted butter until incorporated.
Season with salt, then taste and adjust the seasoning as necessary, adding a little more lemon juice if you think it is needed.
Keep the hollandaise warm while you cook the fennel and fish.
Light the barbecue at least 30 minutes before you plan to cook. When the coals are white hot, season the fish liberally with salt and place it in a large fish clamp, if you have one.
Cook for 15 minutes, turning every 2-3 minutes. When the fish is nearly cooked, remove from the heat and allow to rest for 5 minutes.
While the fish is resting, colour and char the cooked fennel on the barbecue. Serve the fish and fennel with the hollandaise sauce and buttered new potatoes.
Nathan says: If you don’t have a barbecue, all three of the recipes (mackerel, cod steaks and John Dory) can be made using a grill on a high heat instead.
Olly’s wine pairing: Fish’s friend
Specially Selected Rioja Rosado (13%) £6.99, Aldi
This fruity Spanish rosé goes with every fish from plaice to bass and can also handle the robust flavours of rubs and marinades. It’s very keenly priced too.
JERK JOHN DORY WITH COCONUT AND SNAP PEAR SALAD
Serves 4
- 1 John Dory, about 2kg (4lb 8oz), or 2 x 1kg (2lb 4oz) John Dory (or use gurnard, red mullet or even lobster)
- Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the jerksauce
- A drizzle of sunflower oil
- 2 garlic cloves, chopped
- 2tsp chopped fresh ginger
- A bunch of spring onions,
- Trimmed and finely sliced
- 1 red chilli, deseeded and chopped
- ½tsp each ground cinnamon, allspice and freshly grated nutmeg
- 1tsp chopped fresh rosemary
- 1 bay leaf
- Grated zest and juice of 1 lime
- Grated zest and juice of
- 1 orange
- 50g (1¾oz) caster sugar
- 2tbsp dark soy sauce
- 200ml (7fl oz) chicken stock
- 1tbsp chopped fresh coriander leaves
For the salad
- 150g (5½oz) sugar snap peas, sliced lengthways
- 150g (5½oz) fresh coconut, shaved
- 4 spring onions, trimmed and finely sliced
- 20g (¾oz) pickled ginger, finely sliced
- Grated zest and juice of 1 orange
- Grated zest and juice of 1 lime
- 1tbsp chopped fresh coriander leaves
- 1tbsp chopped mint leaves
- 100g (3½oz) creamed coconut (from a block), chopped
- 3tbsp white wine vinegar
For the spice mix
- 1tsp each ground allspice, nutmeg, ground ginger and garlic powder
First, make the jerk sauce. Heat a large pan over a medium heat, then add the oil. When hot, fry the garlic, ginger, spring onions and chilli for 2 minutes.
Add the spices, rosemary, bay leaf and citrus zests and cook for 2 minutes. Add the citrus juices, sugar, soy sauce and stock.
Bring to a simmer and allow to bubble for 5 minutes, or until reduced and thickened. Stir in a pinch of salt and the chopped coriander. Set aside until cool.
To make the salad, place all the ingredients in a large bowl and mix well. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside while you cook the fish.
Light the barbecue around 30 minutes before you are planning to start cooking. Mix all the spice mix ingredients together and then sprinkle it all over the fish.
Cook the fish (in a barbecue fish clamp if you have one) on the hottest part of the barbecue for 6 minutes, without moving it.
Turn over and cook for 6 minutes, or until cooked through.
Arrange the salad on a large platter and lay the fish on top. Serve immediately with the jerk sauce drizzled over the top.
Nathan says: The sauce is really addictive and it’s worth making a bit extra, as it’s also very tasty on a fried breakfast!
- Fish For Dinner by Nathan Outlaw, published by Kyle Books, £28, is out now. To order a copy for £25.20 go to mailshop.co.uk/books or call 020 3176 2937. Free UK delivery on orders over £25. Promotional price valid until 24/06/2023.
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