Australian designer Zimmermann took over New York Fashion Week on Tuesday as models debuted the moody ‘Unbridled’ Fall/Winter 2018 collection for the likes of Katie Holmes and Olivia Palermo.
The runway looks were a far cry from the pastels and florals of the previous collection, with the designer favouring a darker, more bohemian and earthy vibe for the cooler months.
Leather was a recurring theme on the catwalk, with leather coats, trenches, jackets, tuck pants and wide leg trousers all making an appearance throughout the show.
The runway looks were a far cry from the pastels and florals of the previous collection, with the designer favouring a darker, more bohemian and earthy vibe for the cooler months
Sticking with the ‘Unbridled’ vibe, hints to equestrian details found their way into the collection in the form of saddle-inspired corset belts, belted saddle pouches, riding coats, leather strapping, slouch knee boots, cowboy boots and cape trenches.
But beyond this, the overriding theme of the collection, according to Zimmermann, was one of ‘escape and quiet independence’.
In addition to the equestrian feel, models also donned soft harmonious hues, spliced with French and English upholstery-inspired prints in colour combinations that flowed through tan and olive to camel and burgundy.
The label’s signature lace looks still made an appearance but the pieces were adapted for the ‘Unbridled’ feel
True to the label’s signature style, the more feminine pieces included bias-cut dresses, lashings of lace, dramatic draped sleeves, silk chiffon robes, neck-ties and fitted bodice silhouettes.
‘For Fall 18, our muse is a youthfully adventurous Victorian era woman, she lives in oppressive surroundings, but finds freedom and a chance for mischief in her horse and her riding,’ Zimmermann Creative Director, Nicky Zimmermann, said.
‘This is her escape and her horse takes her to where she wants to go, to where fun and trouble can be found.’
Speaking further on the inspiration and how the Unbridled collection came together, Nicky said she ‘imagined a young, free-spirited woman oppressed but wild at heart. She found freedom in her horse, this was her escape’.
Speaking further on the inspiration and how the Unbridled collection came together, Nicky said she ‘ imagined a young, free-spirited woman oppressed but wild at heart. She found freedom in her horse, this was her escape’
‘When girls buy our dresses and they put them on I want them to be able to feel that detail and the amount of effort that we put into it,’ she said
‘When we are drawing and designing we always go back to that feeling of that girl. This collection what we wanted to was mix the prints but make sure they had a beautiful, harmonious hue that almost made them look like one colour,’ she said.
‘The design process is different for everyone but for me, how I like to work, I very much start with a visual of the show and once the initial concept moves from me there’s about 20 pairs of hands on each garment, working tirelessly.
‘When girls buy our dresses and they put them on I want them to be able to feel that detail and the amount of effort that we put into it.
‘Because it’s Fall there’s pieces that have certain practicalities about them – the dresses are incredibly detailed and are probably more cool than glamorous. I want it to be that a girl will wear it to a party and be like “Yeah it’s pretty full on but I’m cool with that”.’